It’s Christmas time, and that means the man in the red suit will be coming our way soon. We’ve assembled a range of gift guides this year to help you pick something for that special someone, even if that someone is yourself! Today, we’ve got dress watches covered!

The end of the year can mean many things: the closing of a chapter, the perfect time for R&R, or perhaps the anticipation of gathering around with friends, family and loved ones for the holidays! However, it also means that Christmas is just around the corner, and with Black Friday having come and gone, time is ticking. Everyone not caught up in the shopping mania of weeks past are now scrambling for gift ideas before the 25th finally arrives!

Should the special someone (or someones!) in your life have a head for horology, then a beautiful new watch would be the perfect gift for them! If you’ve not seen them already, we’ve our Christmas Gift Guide to Chronographs as well as our Christmas Gift Guide to Square Watches on the site – make sure you check them out after this.  I’ve decided to tackle the holiday season with a more traditional approach: dress watches. Whether it be a black tie gala, a formal business outing, a romantic evening, or a graduation, a dress watch finds comfort in minimalism and extravagance in subtlety. It’s not something you’d traditionally wear every day, but you’ll be sure glad it’s there when you need to dress to impress. 

The resurgence of the watch industry also means the resurgence of the dress watch, so watch brands the world over have been under the pump this year, creating some of the best dress offers we’ve seen in a long time. Releases are plentiful, and we understand that it can get extremely confusing, which is why I’m here to help you out. So, enough blabbering, and read on as I count up a variety of beautifully understated dress pieces that are sure to stun at any price point!

Timex: 1960s Marlin Series

At the lower end of the price bracket is the Timex 1960s Marlin. The unique retro design of these timepieces, with slim Arabic numerals for the quarter indexes, presents a fascinating yet fairly boujee aesthetic for the money. It’s for this reason, combined with the reliability of their automatic Miyota movement, that makes watch fans everywhere revere this series within Timex’s Marlin collection. Standing at 40mm case diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug (length), and 13mm thick, the 1960s Marlin comes in either sunray-brushed salmon, green or blue dial colours, as well as a more demure black with gilded accents. For those pursuing elegance on a budget, I couldn’t recommend them enough – especially since you can get 15% off your first purchase!

• References:  TW2V44600 (Green), TW2W33900 (Black/Gilt), TW2V44500 (Blue), TW2W33800 (Salmon)
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$499.95

For More Information, Visit Timex.com

Seiko: Presage Cocktail Time ‘Mockingbird’/‘Cosmopolitan’

Really, how could I start off a list with a value proposition and not include the kings themselves? Seiko is to watches what Toyota is to cars, and their watches are no exception to the rule. One of my favourite Seiko series to date is the Cocktail Time collection, which has various coloured dials that represent different cocktails made at a bar. For the price you pay, you get an incredibly attractive timepiece that I find can be worn for practically any occasion, thanks to the reputable reliability of Seiko themselves. My recommendations would be the deep green SRPD37J1 ‘Mockingbird’ for men, or perhaps the light pink SRP839J1 ‘Cosmopolitan’ for women – but there are so many different versions, I know you’ll find one you like even more.

• References: SRPD37J1 (Mockingbird), SRP839J1 (Cosmopolitan)
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$699 (Mockingbird), AU$695 (Cosmopolitan)

For More Information, Visit here for the ‘Mockingbird,’ or here for the ‘Cosmopolitan’

Tissot: Chemin des Tourelles Blue

The first Swiss watch to make an appearance here is the always-popular Tissot with the Chemin de Tourelles collection. Initially released just last year, they have taken the affordable dress watch world by storm, thanks to a value-driven, beautifully finished package.

Related Reading: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review

With a whopping 80-hour power reserve, this is a watch that can worn on the daily as well as for special occasions. Like the Seiko Cocktail Time, variations are aplenty – and with so many male & female versions to choose from, it’s impossible to lose! I prefer the blue variant pictured above – but if you need a second opinion, check out the review Matt did last year!

• Reference: T139.807.16.041.00
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$1,240

For More Information, Visit Tissot.com 

MIDO: Baroncelli Chronometer Silicon Gent

While the Mido Commander collection is more well-known as part of this Swiss brand’s lineup, the Mido Baroncelli is perhaps more representative of the dress watch genre as a whole. This particular reference is especially stunning, as its dark anthracite dial carries a unique finishing along with it.

Related Reading: Certifications Explained – What Chronometer Actually Means?

The dressy nature of this watch is only furthered by the introduction of rose gold on the hands and indexes – a fitting and elegant addition to this incredible sleeper hit. For those horologically inclined, the added price tag also introduces COSC Chronometer certification, meaning that this watch is a beautiful as it is remarkably accurate.

• Reference: M027.408.16.061.00
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$1,975

For More Information, Visit Mido.com

Raymond Weil: Millesime Silver

Okay – if you’ve been reading my stuff for a while now, you must be getting sick of seeing me glaze this watch to no end. Counterpoint: I don’t care, because this watch absolutely deserves it! Ignoring the absolute comeback tour that Raymond Weil is currently on, the Millesime’s addition to their lineup was both unexpected and welcome.

Related Reading: Hands On With The Raymond Weil Millesime

So welcome, in fact, that they won a GPHG Award for their efforts – the equivalent of an Oscar for watches. At a middling price point, this gorgeous watch now comes with an endless amount of colours, sizes, and complications, perfect for celebrating any special occasion. But don’t just take it from me now, take it from me in the past, when I reviewed the award winner earlier this year:

• Reference: 2930-ST-65001 
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$3,800

For More Information, Visit RaymondWeil.com

Frederique Constant: Classics Premiere

Frederique Constant, often relegated to the background of the watch industry, has been putting exceptional work into their timepieces as of late. This Classic Premiere watch is more than enough proof to verify that claim, as it is as mechanically sound as it is aesthetically. The watch is reasonably sized at 38.5mm, and features Roman Numerals for each quarter index, as well as apple-style hands reminiscent of Cartier. The movement inside – a La Joux-Perret G100 – sports a satisfying 68-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to carry on long after the party is over. For those that love a contemporary take on a tried-and-true classic, this one is surely for them. 

• Reference: FC-301N3B6
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$3,950

For More Information, Visit FrederiqueConstant.com

Longines: Flagship Heritage Moonphase Green

We at WatchAdvice are pretty familiar with Longines, and we know that they are far and away one of the most consistent watch brands of all time. It may not surprise, you, then, that their standards, as high as they are, have always been consistent – a sentiment especially true thanks to the Flagship Heritage Moonphase series. The above rendition, decked out in green, is a delicate new take on the Flagship Heritage collection, and seriously proves why Longines deserves all the flowers it has received and more. Sure, the watch may not have a display case back like some of the others on this list, but if you took one look at the enamelled 18k gold medallion, you wouldn’t be complaining.

• Reference: L48154022
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$5,100

For More Information, visit Longines.com 

Cartier: Santos Dumont Large Black Lacquer

Speaking of familiarity, the Cartier Santos Dumont is a collection that we have reviewed on several occasions (2020 and 2024 respectively). While both of the watches mentioned here were stunning in their own right, they both pale in comparison to the demure black lacquer rendition. This version carries with it an understated aura that is matched by a scant few and, compounded with the reputation of the brand name, has been elevated to a legendary status. It’s why we’ve reviewed it so many times – and quite frankly, I can’t wait until I review it again!

• Reference: WSSA0046
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$9,850

For More Information, Visit Cartier.com.au

IWC: Portugieser Horizon Blue

At first glance, it’s easy to write IWC off as yet another aviation-focussed watch brand. Yet, the delicately crafted yet bold Portugieser lineup stands out in contrast to the primarily utilitarian designs the Schaffhausen brand is known for. Available in all sorts of shapes and sizes, my pick of the bunch would have to be the new 40mm in Horizon Blue.

Related Reading: Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs – The Portugieser

It effectively ticks all the boxes of what a quintessential dress watch should be: simple, yet ruthlessly engineered; subtle, yet extravagantly finished, yet obvious to those in the know. By all accounts, the Portugieser is the modern man’s dress watch. 

• Reference: IW358402
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$28,000

For More Information, Visit IWC.com

A. Lange & Sӧhne: Saxonia Thin

You just can’t beat this. The best is – and always has been – German, thanks in part to the monumental effort that A. Lange & Sӧhne go to make the most excellent wristwatches in the world. This piece, standing at a mere 7.5mm thickness with a 39mm case diameter, represents the very best of the dress watch genre. Decked out in 750 white gold, with an aventurine dial mimicking the stars above, this rendition of the Saxonia Thin is as crazy as you can get whilst still exercising restraint. Remember, a dress watch isn’t built to grab attention but instead to attract it, and when you take one look at this you will be attracted for sure.

• Reference: 205.086
• International Recommended Retail Price: Price upon request

For More Information, Visit ALange-Soehne.com

Square watches, and we’re not talking about your more formal rectangular dress watches either, no we mean SQUARE! – they can be divisive, as not everyone loves them. But, there are some great watches out there from some of the biggest, and not-so-big, names in the industry. They can be sporty, or they can be much more dressy, but either way, no matter what your style or lifestyle is, there is a square-shaped watch out there for most tastes. So, if you’re thinking about that perfect square-shaped watch, then we’ve hand-picked 10 square watches at a range of price points that are sure to win someone over this Christmas, even if that someone is you!

Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue

Bell & Ross are famous for their square watches, more specifically, the circle inside the square which was inspired by instrument panels on old planes – hence their tagline, Instruments for Professionals. However, their Urban collection takes this concept and refines it a little with sleeker and more modern-looking pieces, and the skeletonised BR-05 Arctic Blue takes this one step further with a skeletonised blue dial designed to look like it’s been carved out of ice. It is 40mm wide and 10.33 mm thick, so it will suit most wrists out there, Bell & Ross bracelets are comfortable, so it’s a great everyday piece for those who want something sporty and a little left of centre. The best part? It is limited to 250 pieces, so you will have something a little unique.

• Reference: BR05A-AB-SKST/SST
• Australian RRP: A$12,800

For more information, visit BellRoss.com

Cartier Santos de Cartier Green

Is there anything more iconic in the square watch world than the Cartier Santos? The Santos was the world’s first pilots watch, and wristwatch for that matter with a history dating back to 1904 when Louis Cartier gifted pioneering aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont a watch to help with his flying endeavours. These days, the Santos de Cartier is more modern, with different sizes and materials, but the DNA of the original is still there. We’ve chosen the Santos de Cartier Automatic Medium in green, hey, it’s Christmas and the green dial is perfect for the season, or anytime really. The Santos has an interchangeable green alligator leather strap as well, and with the quick change mechanism, you can swap between the two each day. A staple for any collection, or for someone who wants that one watch that can be highly versatile, worn each day and for any occasion.

• Reference: WSSA0061
• Australian RRP: A$11,500

For more information, visit Cartier.com.au

Cartier Panthère de Cartier Medium Rose Gold

Yes, it’s another Cartier, but this time, we’ve chosen the Panthère medium in rose gold. Cartier is famous for their case shapes, and they do square watches so, so well. The Panthère de Cartier is having a bit of a renaissance of late as well and can be for both men and women, so it’s quite the versatile piece. Due to its size: 29mm x 37mm, with a thickness of just 7mm, it is a quartz watch, but this means it’s highly accurate and will keep ticking for many years before a battery change is needed. The Panthère de Cartier is another timeless piece that will pair well with most outfits. it dresses up casual attire and completes any formal look too. A great one to put on the Christmas wish list!

• Reference: WGPN0007
• Australian RRP: A$43,200

For more information, visit Cartier.com.au

Hublot Square Bang Unico Titanium Blue Ceramic

We all know Hublot doesn’t follow the trends, they set them, and the Square Bang is their version of a square-shaped watch, with Big Bang Unico vibes. In this instance, it’s the titanium and blue ceramic version, which is a great versatile colourway, and coming in at 42mm, it’s not too big for most to pull off! It’s a bold-looking piece, but is light thanks to the titanium case and ceramic bezel, on top of that, it has Hublot’s in-house HUB1280 Unico 2 movement which is one of the smoothest flyback chronographs on the market today.

• Reference: 821.NL.5170.RX
• Australian RRP: A$37,600

For More Information Visit: Hublot.com

Hermès H08 Rose Gold

Hermès doesn’t get enough credit as a watchmaker. It is a typical story of a high-end fashion brand getting into the watch world, and people not associating it with pure horology. But, the leather goods manufacturer has come a long way with their watch division, now having in-house movements to the point where they are developing some amazing high complications, like the Arceau l’Heure de la Lune. The H08 Rose Gold is a great precious metal sports watch, with an 18k rose gold outer case, ceramic bezel and a black DLC titanium case back. Inside is the Hermés 1837 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve and this piece is 100m water resistant, so with the rubber strap, you can enjoy it without worry. It is a great mid-sized watch with a 39mm diameter and 42mm across the wrist, so will suit many wrists, both men and women, and the price is pretty good as well for a gold watch.

• Reference: W060124WW00
• Australian RRP: A$26,000

For More Information Visit: Hermes.com

Patek Philippe Cubitus

So we had to put the Cubitus in here, it would be wrong not to! There’s been perhaps no watch this year that’s had just a mixed reception to it than Patek Philippe’s Cubitus. But, putting all the conjecture aside, it’s a decent looking square sports watch, and lets face it, there’s quite a lot of celebrities that haver been seen wearing it and we’re going to go out on a limb here and say it will be a hot watch to get…eventually. It’s wide at 45mm, but its slim at just 8.3mm and from all reports, as long as you don’t have tiny wrists, you can get away with it. Can you easily get one? No, not unless you’re already a customer, or you’re in the know, but one to put on the list anyway!

• Reference: 5821/1A
• Australian RRP: POA

For More Information Visit: Patek.com

Rado True Square Open Heart

Rado is known as the Master of Materials and for good reason. The brand has been working with ceramics for decades and were one of the pioneers of it. Their High-Tech ceramic looks great and even better when polished, like this True Square in polished black High-Tech Ceramic. It’s also part of their Open Heart range, with skeletonised dials showcasing the movement underneath. Lightweight, almost scratch-proof (my wife has had a Rado True Thinline white ceramic for 10 years and still looks brand new!), water resistant to 50m and with an 80-hour power reserve, it is a good all-round watch. Coupled with this, at 38mm in diameter and 9.7mm thick, it can be worn by most wrist sizes on both men and women. Don’t like black? That’s ok, Rado has a range of colour variants to choose from.

• Reference: R27086152
• Australian RRP: A$4,350

For More Information Visit: Rado.com

SevenFriday CuXedo

You may not have heard of SevenFriday, it’s not a hugely well-known or popular brand, but it does have a strong following from those who know, and those who know, love it! They do some cool retro-styled pieces and in a rounded square shape for the most part and the CuXedo is a great example. With an openworked dial, rotating small seconds ring and rather than the date, a window indicating the day make this a fun watch. The animation ring is done in Damascene, a process that fuses different metals together to create a unique pattern. Sized at 47.6mm, it’s a large watch, but it’s fun and for someone who wants to buck the norm and go their own way in the watch world.

• Reference: PS2/02 CuXedo
• Australian RRP: A$2,550

For More Information Visit: AU.SevenFriday.com

TAG Heuer Monaco Titanium Pink

What would a square watch gift guide be without one of the OG square sports watches? The TAG Heuer Monaco is a classic, made famous when Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans over 50 years ago. Since then, it has become a classic, and the modern iterations have taken the DNA of the Monaco and made it relevant for today’s watch lover. This example is the latest Monaco released just last month and features a skeletonised dial with hot pink accents, housed in a black DLC titanium case and with TAG Heuer’s in-house TH20-00 chronograph movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Speaking from experience, don’t be fooled by the size on paper – 39mm, 47.4mm lug to lug & 15.2mm thick. This is a great watch that is super easy to wear each day, and looks great on the wrist, albeit a little different to what you may see others wearing at your local café. But that’s a good thing.

• Reference: CBL218B.FT6236
• Australian RRP: A$16,300

For More Information Visit: Tagheuer.com

Tissot Lovely Square

Tissot is known for its value-for-money propositions, and the Tissot Lovely Square is no exception here. Measuring 20mm x 20mm, this is a watch for those ladies who want something small and elegant on their wrist that can be paired with just about any outfit. Reminiscent of ladies’ dress watches from the 1960s, the Tissot Lovely Square is made from 316L steel, water-resistant to 30m and has a Swiss Quartz movement for no fuss. It is also great bang for buck at less than A$500, so it’s perfect as a gift for that special girl in your life, or a cheeky gift for yourself!

• Reference: T058.109.11.041.00
• Australian RRP: A$495

For More Information Visit: Tissotwatches.com

There you have it. 10 square watches at various prices for the discerning watch lover in your life. If you haven’t seen our Christmas Gift Guide To Chronographs, then make sure you check it out as well and stay tuned for more Gift Guide ideas over the next 2 weeks in the lead-up to Christmas.

The search for the perfect gift begins with the festive season well and truly among us! For watch enthusiasts and those who appreciate watches, a well-crafted chronograph is an appealing model to add to the collection. Chronograph timepieces have become a symbol of versatility, combining functionality and aesthetic appeal. This Christmas, whether it’s for yourself, a loved one, or a friend who is into watches, a finely crafted chronograph may indeed be the perfect gift.

Chronographs are timepieces that are instruments of precision and utility. When chronograph models were originally developed, they were created for pilots, racers, and divers, for whom measuring time was crucial to the profession. From timing laps on a racetrack to calculating speeds or even keeping track of everyday events, chronograph timepieces are certainly a useful tool that comes with a dose of elegance. In the modern day, however, chronograph timepieces have gone beyond their functional origins to become icons of watchmaking design.

When it comes to the world of horology, the variety of chronograph timepieces you’ll find is staggering. Brands are always trying to innovate and incorporate new designs into this iconic complication, such as innovating the simple chronograph mechanism further by creating complications such as the split-second chronograph, rattrapante chronograph or even the flyback chronograph. When it comes to aesthetic design, there is a range of styles to suit various tastes as well. From the classic two-register layouts to modern three-register chronographs or configurations like the rattrapantes and flybacks, each type offers a unique story and appeal!

When choosing a chronograph timepiece as a gift, it is essential to consider the lifestyle of the recipient. Do they love motorsports? In that case, they may prefer chronographs with tachymeters, which are reminiscent of early chronographs used for racing. Maybe they like to travel the world, so a world-time chronograph would be a perfect gift. Or maybe in their downtime, they like to go diving, for which a divers chronograph watch would suit them great! It could also be simply that they like the look of a chronograph watch; the sight of a chronograph in action, its sweeping hands measuring time with the precision of the intricate and complex movement inside, can certainly be appealing. Whatever the passion or reason, a chronograph is a great addition to any watch collection. While there are too many chronograph models released this year to list, we’ve chosen some great stand-out pieces, shown below, that will cater to a variety of tastes, preferences and budget!

A. Lange & Söhne 

Datograph Up/Down 750 White Gold

A.Lange & Sohne introduced a new version of the Datograph Up/Down, this time presented in a 750 white gold case with an aesthetic blue dial with white counters. The Datograph Up/Down features a flyback chronograph mechanism, a precisely jumping minute counter, an outsize date and a power-reserve indicator. The flyback mechanism allows two quick consecutive time measurements, with virtually no delay between these. The chronograph is stopped, reset to zero, and started again in next to no time.

• Reference:  405.028
• International Recommended Retail Price: Price upon request

For More Information, Visit: Alange-soehne.com

Audemars Piguet

Code 11.59 Self-winding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet created quite the buzz when they released the Code 11.59 collection. This latest 18-carat pink gold version brings forth the latest design evolution for the Code 11.59 Chronograph, with the stand out signature embossed dial now being presented in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade. The blue contrasts beautifully against the pink gold of the case and dial to make a very attractive-looking timepiece.

RELATED READING: Audemars Piguet Drops Seven New Code 11:59 Pieces

• Reference:  26393OR.OO.A348KB.01
• International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 43,300 

For More Information, Visit: AudemarsPiguet.com

Breitling

Chronomat B01 42 Arctic White Australian Limited Edition

As part of Breitling’s 140th anniversary celebrations, the brand has released a limited-edition version dedicated to Australia and New Zealand. Limited to just 140 models, this timepiece features a crisp “Arctic White” dial done in a matte white coating to give it an almost lacquer dial look. The black counters for the chronograph functions not only contrast well, but also gives the dial the panda look.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition

• Reference: AB01344B1A1S1
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $12,190

For More Information, Visit: Breitling.com.au

Glashuette Original

SeaQ Chronograph

The latest version of Glashuette Original’s SeaQ Chronograph has a not-so-straightforward black-and-white look. The dial features two subcounters with the outer rings being done in black, while the date window at 6 o’clock is oversized and is also done in black to stay in the colour theme. What makes this watch stand out, however, is the dial finish. The dial finish is achieved by using a galvanic silver dial that makes use of the same optical effect that cinema screens once achieved using a thin coat of silver paint: the surface reduces the dispersion of light to a minimum and enables more excellent contrast than a traditional white background.

RELATED READING: Introducing The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”

• Reference: 1-37-23-03-80-34
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $23,000

For More Information, Visit: Glashuette-original.com

Hublot

Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Hublot released two new colours for their Big Bang Unico collection, one in bright orange and another in a military green proving once again, that they’re masters of the coloured ceramic watch! This is arguably the first time bright orange ceramic has been used to create a watch case, showing Hublot’s daring spirt of innovation and being different.

Related Reading: Hublot Adds Two New Colours To The Big Bang Unico Collection

• Reference: 441.CU.5910.RX
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $44,100 

For More Information, Visit: Hublot.com.au

Seiko

Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph

Seiko has quite the extensive collection of Proxpex Speedtimer Solar Chronographs, providing a timepiece for a variety of tastes and colour preferences. This latest model, however, is arguably the stand-out timepiece of the collection. It features a striking sunburst gold dial with black counters in direct contrast. The tachymeter bezel is done in blue and red, further spicing up what is one colourful timepiece.

• Reference: SSC947
• International Recommended Retail Price: AUD $1,100

For More Information, Visit: Seikowatches.com.au

Swatch x Omega

Moonswatch Mission To Earthphase

The Swatch x Omega was all the buzz and hype when the Moonswatch was first introduced. Since then, the two brands have slowly been drip-feeding new models into the collection. One of the latest is the Mission to Earthphase, which comes with a grey dial with a grain texture to resemble the moon’s surface. What’s cool about this edition, however, is that it boasts both a moon phase and a patented earth phase function. Two oversized moons with Super-LumiNova® (white emission) can be seen on the moon phase disc, which rotates in the subdial set at 2 o’clock. The earth phase function located in the subdial at 10 o’clock is coloured.

• Reference: Mission To Earthphase
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $525.00

For More Information, Visit: Swatch.com

TAG Heuer

Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Silver Panda

Combining classic racing heritage with modern silver charm, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Silver Panda has many little details that make this one of the best Carrera models yet. While the case has the signature Carrera styling, it’s the dial that makes this watch drool-worthy. When you look at the Sunray silver panda dial, you’ll see that it has a brushed finish. Combine this with the circular engraved sub-dials and the touches of red found throughout the dial, and it quickly becomes a very aesthetically pleasing dial with a lot to offer!

RELATED READING: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda!

• Reference: CBS2216.BA0041
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $9,650

For More Information, Visit: Tagheuer.com.au

Tudor

Black Bay Chrono

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono released this year, is offered in two colour variants. Firstly we get the standard blue (which is still beautiful too) with contrasting white hour indices and hands. The second, which is just stunning, is the pink dial variant. There aren’t many pink dial offerings in the market today, and Tudor has absolutely nailed this colour. Presented on the 5-link bracelet, this watch is elegant, classy and looks stunning!

• Reference: m79360n-0019
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $8,370

For More Information, Visit: Tudorwatch.com

Zenith

Defy Skyline Chronograph

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith released a chronograph version of their highly popular Defy Skyline model. The Defy Skyline Chronograph keeps the design of the Defy Skyline intact, while now enhancing it with a 1/10th second chronograph function. The model is presented in either a blue dial or white dial, with the white dial variant getting a colourful green strap. Both dials also feature Zenith’s iconic star logo imprinted onto the dial. which adds a subtle aesthetic detail to the chronograph dial.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

• Reference: Ref 03.9500.3600/01.I00
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $20,700

For More Information, Visit: Zenith-watches.com

Back in July, we reported the re-shuffling of CEO roles over at Richemont, which all started when Nicolas Bos, then-current CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels took the role of CEO of Richemont from June 1st this year. This move then started a domino effect of sorts, with a shuffling of other brands to fill the CEO role at Van Cleef & Arpels as well as the top role at Cartier thanks to Cyrille Vigneron’s departure.

These moves resulted in Catherine Rénier, then CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, moving into the CEO role at Van Cleef & Arpels, a good move by the company. Taking Cyrille Vigneron’s role at Cartier was Vacheron Constantin Boss, Louis Ferla. These two moves left a few empty CEO seats, and last week it was announced that they have now been filled.

Jérôme Lambert, an industry veteran has been tapped on the shoulder to take over the top role at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Some may know Jérôme Lambert already as he previously held the CEO position of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013. He has had an illustrious career with Richemont, Starting out at Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1996 as the brand’s financial controller, then CFO before becoming CEO. Since leaving the CEO role, he has gone on to head up Mont Blanc and in 2017 he became Richemont’s Group Head of Operations, and in the same year, Group Operations Officer overseeing most of the Jewellery and Watchmaking operations. This set him up for the top role, with Mr Lambert becoming the Group Chief Executive Officer from September 2018 to May 2024, before stepping into the Group Chief Operating Officer role in June of this year.

“It is with profound honour and genuine pleasure that I return to the Grande Maison, the place where I first set foot into the magnificent world of Swiss watchmaking. This opportunity is both a privilege and a homecoming to the craft and heritage that have shaped my career.”

Jérôme Lambert, incoming Jager-LeCoutlre CEO

Alongside Mr Lambert at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Perves fills the CEO role at Vacheron Constantin, and again, is no stranger to the brand. Having joined the Maison in 2016, first as Chief Marketing Officer, then as the Chief Commercial Officer since 2021, he, too, is a luxury industry veteran with over 20 years of experience. Mr Perves has worked at the LVMH group as Change Manager over a number of years, and then 10 years in the ‘Prestige Products’ Division of Procter & Gamble, where he occupied various functions in Consumer Intelligence, Marketing, Creation and Business Development, before reaching a Global Brand Leadership position on Gucci Parfums.

In 2014, he entered the world of Swiss Watchmaking as Head of Brand Communication for Audemars Piguet before moving into the CMO role at Vacheron Constantin, where he worked hand in hand with Vacheron’s previous CEO, Louis Ferla.

Both Jérôme Lambert and Laurent Perves will start their new roles from the 1st of January 2025. We wish them all the best!

Patek Philippe continues to dominate the auction world, with the latest new record for the highest-selling Nautilus timepiece. Earlier this week at the 30th anniversary of the Children Action auction in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s 5711 Nautilus sold for a record amount of US$7.67 million. This wasn’t just a standard Nautilus either, as it was intricately decorated with Maori-style engraving.

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Another factor that would’ve helped push the 5711 Nautilus to new record prices is that Patek Phillipe discontinued the model a few years back. The final “farewell” piece was the 5711 in Tiffany Blue dial with the Tiffany Blue stamp released in 2021. This means that three years after its retirement, it has made a comeback one last time to support a very worthy cause.

To give a sense as to how well this Nautilus did during the auction, the previous record for a Nautilus being sold in auction was the Tiffany Blue 5711, which sold for US$6.2 million. As this was a farewell piece for the 5711 line, it garnered global attention, driving the final price to astronomical heights.

The Nautilus isn’t the only model from Patek Philippe that’s done incredibly well during auction either. Patek Philippe holds the record for the most expensive watch (and wristwatch) sold at auction. On November 9th, 2019, in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 sold for an astonishing US$31.19 million during a Christie’s auction.

This was then followed by 10th edition of Only Watch held this year, where Patek Philippe “chose to highlight its know-how in the field of striking watches by reinterpreting the Grande Sonnerie reference 6301, an exceptional watch launched in 2020, combining a Grande Sonnerie (the “grail” of acoustic functions), a Petite Sonnerie and a minute repeater.” Only Watch is a biennial charity auction of luxury watches where the brands present a unique “one-off” timepiece for auction. This is where they can experiment and create something truly unique, or in the case of Patek Philippe, truly showcase the brand’s expertise of ultra-fine craftsmanship advanced complications.

While the Children Action auction doesn’t require brands to present unique watches, Patek Philippe still went the extra mile to make something special. The Children Action auction is an annual charity event organised by the Swiss foundation Children Action, which supports disadvantaged children worldwide. Patek Philippe has been supporting this auction since 2005, creating timepiece to help this great charity. During the Children Action auction in 2022. held in Geneva by Philipps, Bacs & Russo, Patek Philippe once again presented a unique timepiece that once again sold for a record price. The timepiece was the first ever titanium version of the perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 5270T-010, selling for a whopping 9.7 million Swiss francs.

For this year’s Children Action auction, Patek Philippe chose to resurrect the Nautilus in steel, reference 5711/1500A, accompanied by a pair of cuff links that have the same Maori-inspired engraving. Patek Philippe chose to keep this unique Nautilus timepiece in steel as the material has a special place in the collection. The original Nautilus was presented in stainless steel, which at the time of its unveiling went against most traditional watchmaking, where brands were releasing luxury sports timepieces in precious metals.

All proceeds from the sale of the most expensive Patek Philippe Nautilus will help fund support programs focused on health, education, and psychological well-being through Children Action, ensuring that the auction’s success translates into meaningful impact for children in need.

Digital time is such an underrated complication in mechanical watches. Yes, you can access digital time on practically any screen, phone, or piece of wearable tech these days. But, it’s infinitely more satisfying to see how mad craftsmen the world over have harnessed digital time displays through flawless feats of engineering. This list comprises some of my favourites that represent the very best of this complication!

1 – Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon

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I just had to talk about this one, as I can confidently say it’s one of the most incredible feats of microengineering have ever seen. Vanguart is a fairly new independent brand in the haute horlogerie scene, having been founded in 2017 by Axel Leuenberger, Jeremy Frelechox, Thierry Fischer, and Mehmet Korutürk. Leuenberger and Frelechox are both seasoned veterans of APRP (Audemars Piguet, Renaud & Papi) and Fischer is a seasoned watch designer, with Korutürk standing as the President of the company.

Despite its gargantuan 49mm wide, 48mm long and 10.5mm thick stature, the Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon’s design is as abstract as it is organic and sleek. Every line of the watch flows seamlessly, with no visible screws or pins. This allows for an alien, yet seamless wearing experience – a credit towards the design chops of Fischer. The dial features three concentric rings of Arabic numerals, designed with a subtle concave shape to enhance the illusion of depth. A tourbillon has been placed into the centre of the dial, evocative of the timepiece’s namesake. 

Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Tourbillon 

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The movement powering all this horological goodness is the manual wind T-1701, which runs on a 3Hz (21,600VpH) beat rate backed by 42 hours of power reserve. While 42 hours may not seem like the best in the world, keep in mind that it’s not only powering the central tourbillon, but the Vanguart Black Hole carries a few more tricks up its sleeve, such as the vertically tracked power reserve, visible at the 9 o’clock; and dual crowns with what Vanguart calls ‘joystick time setting.’ Instead of having to spin either crown to adjust the time, Vanguart’s crowns require just a nudge forward or backwards to dynamically adjust the time of the watch. 

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The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon is simply magical in both form and function. It really goes to show that, even now, new ground is being broken in watchmaking almost every single day. No wonder why they were able to get the support of investors like Hayden Kho and James Harden – who wouldn’t want to be a part of this craziness?

Availability: 8 pieces in each material (Titanium, rose/white gold), International RRP CHF290,000 (Titanium) or CHF320,000 (Rose/white gold). Find out more at Vanguart’s official website.

2 – Amida Digitrend

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Certainly in more accessible territory is Amida, which has burst onto the scene in 2024 after nearly five decades in hibernation. Founded in 1925 in Granges, Switzerland, the fledgling watch company would be one of many brands unfortunately swept up in the Quartz Crisis, collapsing in 1979. The Digitrend, introduced three years prior at the Basel Fair, would become one of the company’s crowning achievements. One of the first casquette watches in the world, the Amida Digitrend’s modern (for the time) driver-style design became an immediate sensation.

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In 2024, the brand was brought back into the limelight thanks to a renewed Amida crew, led by Matthieu Allègre and Clément Meynier. Naturally, the Digitrend was the first place they decided to go, resulting in a faithful remaster of their most iconic watch. The smooth, retro-futuristic design features a 39.6mm x 39 x 15.6mm monobloc brushed stainless steel case, accompanied by either a brushed steel strap or one of black Alcantara textile.

The core of the Amida Digitrend is powered by an automatic Soprod Newton P092 movement, with a respectable 44-hour power reserve and specialist modifications for the time display. At first glance, a horizontal time display the way that Amida does it seems to have ‘engineering nightmare’ written all over it. However, that is far from the truth – in 1973, Amida was able to solve this simple problem by way of optical illusion, utilising reflective crystal prisms to reflect light similarly to a submarine’s periscope. 

Related Reading: MB&F Relives The Dream With The HM8 MkII

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In this modern watch world, I’ve found that more and more brands are being brought back out of extinction – kind of like Jurassic Park for watch enthusiasts, and it’s only ever a good thing! By bringing back the brands of the past, not only are we able to spiritually succeed their founders, but also learn from their achievements and shortcomings. For the watch industry to see the way forward, it must learn to look back. In Amida’s case, they’ve done the looking back part – now the real work truly begins.

Availability: Available for waitlist (Launch Edition no longer available), International RRP CHF3.250. Find out more at Amida’s official website.

3 – A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

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Of course, we can’t talk about digital time without talking about what I deem to be the world-beater of the digital time complicatiion. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk collection, initially released in 2008, is one of the more abstract offerings from the Glashütte-based brand. At 41.9mm in case diameter and standing 12.2mm thick, it’s certainly not your typical delicate dress watch. But, the insane level of mechanical and aesthetic complexity has made it one of the most desirable timepieces around. 

So much so, that A. Lange & Söhne have released six different versions of the Zeitwerk (German for ‘time work’) as of 2024. This includes an assortment of additional features such as: date wheels; minute repeater and decimal strike complications; translucent dials; and further accompanied by cases of platinum, white gold and their proprietary HONEYGOLD®!

Related Reading: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in Honeygold

It’s hard to talk about the Zeitwerk without first mentioning that dial, which is unlike anything you will ever see in another watch. Enlarged, outsize hour and minute indicators take up the 9 and 3 o’clock positions respectively, followed by a small second sub-dial at 6 o’clock with the signature ‘Auf/Ab’ power reserve indicator situated right above. What I love the most is that the outsize digital time indicators are made separate from the rest of the dial, with A. Lange & Söhne making no pretences as to the mechanical nature of this masterpiece.

And that’s only the half of it, considering the manual wind L043 series of movements – complete with an oddly situated 2 o’clock crown – is one of the most gorgeous pieces of machinery ever hand-crafted by a human being. Just creating a movement efficient enough to withstand the level of complexity that the Zeitwerk offers is an achievement in of itself; yet the master watchmakers of A. Lange & Söhne have managed to do so whilst offering power reserves of up to 72 hours – and still have time to hand finish every aspect of the watch! 

Availability/RRP: Upon Request. Find out more at A. Lange & Söhne’s official website.

4 – Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper

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However, if there’s anyone that’s going to contend with A. Lange & Söhne in the digital time arena, Franck Müller is a brand that would be eager to step up to the plate. Unveiled in July 2023, the Curvex CX Master Jumper series is one of those timepieces that can either establish or re-establish a legacy. For Franck Müller, a brand that has lost some popularity in the Western world, it does the latter, permitting them to gleefully live up to their reputation as the ‘Master of Complications.’

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Presented in a 40mm x 55.4mm x 10.8mm case, the Curvex CX Master Jumper proves that, for a mechanical watch, no hands is no problem. The dial is completely barren, save for the simple yet elaborate guilloché and three vertically aligned digital displays. These displays tell the hour, minute, and date respectively, and are connected by a circular cut-out meant to evoke the image of the movement on the front of the dial.

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Speaking of movement, the Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper contains the manual wind Cal. MVT FM 3100-C1, which powers all the above complications with ease. Yes, it only has about 30 hours of power reserve, but a watch like this is hardly suited for everyday wear (unless you can afford it). Additionally, Franck Müller also has to contend with not just the complications, but the challenges of restricting their engineering prowess to the confines of the Curvex case. At the end of the day, it’s a beautifully designed watch, and Franck Müller has invested their time to ensure that the movement perfectly fits into the case. And for that, I think it’s a kick-ass statement piece.

Availability: Upon Request, International RRP CHF72,800 (Rose/white gold). Find out more at Franck Müller’s official website.

5 – De Bethune DBD

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Related Reading: De Bethune kicks off Dubai Watch Week 2023 With Brand New DBD Evergreen!

Coming a little out of left field is independent brand De Bethune, who specialise in keeping within a unique horological aesthetic. It’s hard to stand out in haute horlogerie, especially when every release is as spectacular as the last, but the L’Auberson brand prefers it that way. They love keeping to themselves whilst at the same time producing ruthlessly well-crafted timepieces, dropping them to the surprise and wonder of enthusiasts worldwide. At Geneva Watch Days 2024, for example, they would find themselves close to the mainstream spotlight with a double drop of watches within their DB28 collection.

Related Reading: De Bethune’s DB28 goes XS x2 for Gevena Watch Days 

As much as I gushed about those two, I would have to say my favourite release from them is one of their lesser talked about – especially considering that it’s extremely limited. The DBD collection, initially referred to as DBS Digitale in 2006, is an unorthodox watch among unorthodox watches. 

At 42.6mm diameter with just 9.4mm thickness, the minimalist nature of the De Bethune DBD plays extremely well with its vertical crown and bizarre case shape, complete with ‘ogive-shaped’ lugs. Côtes de Genève striping is prevalent on the dial, available in either red (DBD ‘Season 2’) or green (DBD ‘Evergreen’), and comes complete with a completely symmetrical complication layout: a triple calendar (day/date/month) flanked by two rubies, with the minute and hour indicators situated below.

Completing the watch is the innocent-looking Cal. DB2044 movement, which has been delicately shaped and completed with a heat-blued escapement. However, don’t let the simplicity fool you, as the DB2044 carries with it a monstrous amount of specs, thanks to the in-house development team at De Bethune. In the relatively thin case, the brand has still managed to cram in a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, and a scarcely believable 120 hours of power reserve! Such a thing would be almost impossible to believe, were it made by anyone else. However, De Bethune takes themselves extremely seriously, and despite its simple and innocent nature, the De Bethune DBD collection is as serious as it gets.

Availability: Limited to 20 pieces (Evergreen) and 13 pieces (Season 2), International RRP CHF105,000. Find out more at De Bethune’s official website.

6 – IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years

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As I said, to move forward in the watch industry is to look back. IWC proved to be no exception to the rule, as the Schaffhausen-based brand is highly regarded to be one of the progenitors of the digital time complication with the Pallweber pocket watch. Invented by Josef Pallweber in 1883, he would grant the production licenses to IWC, who would make and sell over 16,000 copies of Pallweber’s invention until the 1890s.

Related Reading: The History Of IWC Schaffhausen

In 2018, IWC would celebrate their 150th anniversary by heralding in the IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition collection, effectively resurrecting the classic aesthetic for a more contemporary (and wristwatch-oriented) audience. 

IWC preserved the design elements that enthusiasts loved about the original pocket watch – particularly the hour/minute/small second layout – in a 45mm diameter, 11.9mm thick case. These timepieces were available in both steel and red gold, with lacquered dial options of deep blue or stark white. Three discs comprise the digital time display of hours and minutes, with a minimal yet elegantly designed small second sub-dial sunken down for dimensionality’s sake. Forgive me if I don’t sound super excited about these watches, though; It’s not that I don’t like the design, but the classic and simplistic design does more of the talking than I could ever possibly describe.

What I can talk about with excitement, though, is the movement they used for this special tribute. The manual wind Cal. 94200, an offshoot of the Cal. 94000 series of movements, was specifically made to hold up to the added complexities of the Tribute to Pallweber Edition collection. The Cal. 94200 was complete with a 60-hour power reserve, 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, beautiful finishing, and a commemorative medallion inside the movement. 

The IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition collection would the perfect nod to one of their earliest and most significant horological contributors. Josef Pallweber’s innovation and craftsmanship would set the standard high, inadvertently paving the way for other legends like Albert Pellaton, Richard Habring and Gérald Genta to indelibly mark their legacy in IWC, with the brand paying tribute to all of them in kind. 

Availability: No longer available, Grey Market Est. AU$30,000 – AU$60,000 (Chrono24). Find out more at IWC’s official website.

With every new year comes two more reasons for me to be excited: Watches &Wonders and the GPHG. Now that it’s passed, you may already be familiar with the world’s biggest watch fair , but I’m more than happy to explain the latter.

How Does It Work?

Standing for Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the GPHG is to the watch industry what the Oscars are to the film industry. To compete, the best watchmakers and watch brands from all around the world submit various timepieces for consideration. These watches are then nominated by the GPHG Academy to compete in any of the 15 award categories, including: Best Sports Watch – timepieces notable for their performance in intense environments; Best Ladies’ Watch; Best Tourbillon; Even the Petite Aiguille and Challenge categories, consisting of the best timepieces made within a certain budget (CHF 3,000 to CHF 10,000 and under CHF3,000, respectively)

The Academy itself is an assortment of nearly 1000 of the best and most experienced stakeholders in the watch industry, including: Hodinkee’s Ben Klymer; Arnault brothers Jean and Frédéric; YouTubers Jennifer Leingang (Jenni Elle) and Nico Leonard Van Der Horst; Akrivia’s Rexhep Rexhepi; and the venerable Richard Mille, among countless others. From these nominations, just six watches are chosen per category, which are then judged by a panel of 30 GPHG jurors. These include some of the greatest minds that horology has to offer, with master watchmakers such as Raúl Pagès, Bart Grönefeld, and Philippe Dufour among others.

The Aiguille D’Or – The GPHG’s Highest Honour

Like most award shows, there exists the ‘big one’ – the award that everyone is gunning after. For the GPHG, this is the Aiguille D’Or (Literally translated to ‘Golden Needle’), denoting the GPHG’s watch of the year. Not only is this a big deal for the brand, but it also permits the winning brand’s CEO to sit at the judge’s table for the next GPHG Award Ceremony. This year, Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta has been invited to sit on the jury, as the Le Brassus brand won the Aiguille D’Or in 2023 with the Code 11:59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD4 under the leadership of previous CEO François Bennahmias.

Related Reading: All the GPHG Winners From Geneva 2023

Like every GPHG, competition between the nominated pieces was as fierce as ever. However, there can only be one winner, and IWC Schaffhausen was destined to receive the top honours. The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, while appearing as unassuming as perpetual calendars go, is a viciously engineered masterpiece. This is IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar complication, factoring in the rules of the Gregorian calendar and skipping three leap years over the next 400 years.

Not only that, but the Porgugieser Eternal Calendar’s moonphase complication has been re-engineered, making it accurate to 45 million years! To do this, they had to use a specialised computer program that simulated over 23 trillion possible gearing systems to determine which one would be most ideal for the task, resulting in an engineering feat that permits the Portugieser Eternal Calendar to display accurate moon phase readings until the year 45,364,079. 

While its 44.4mm case diameter and 14.9mm thickness are rather imposing for all but the largest of wrists, no other watch in the world has perhaps taken the phrase of ‘withstanding the test of time’ any more literally than this one. IWC has deservedly taken the Aiguille D’Or for 2024, undoubtedly making CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr an extremely happy man. Congratulations from WatchAdvice to all at IWC and to Christoph – we can’t wait to see you on the juror’s table next year!

The Highlights

While IWC gets the biggest share of the spotlight with the Aiguille D’Or, there still remain 15 categories and 5 honorary awards to play for. As much as I want to break every single nominated watch down in excruciating detail, by the time I’m finished the Portugieser Eternal Calendar would probably reach its end. However, here are three of the award winners that I felt best encapsulated the spirit of GPHG 2024 and this incredible landmark year for watchmaking:

Audacity Prize: Berneron Mirage Sienna

In my opinion, this has to be the best release of 2024 – barring the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, of course. Sylvain Berneron, former Chief Product Officer at Breitling, felt that it was high time for him to explore his own horological vision beyond the large corporate confines of the esteemed Swiss brand. His ventures beyond Breitling would lead him to found Berneron alongside his wife, architect Marie-Alix Berneron, in 2022. 

The Mirage collection, their first solo foray into the watchmaking world, is perhaps what all enterprising watch brand founders aspire to create. Complete creative freedom for the Berneron duo saw the Mirage take form as a uniquely asymmetrical timepiece that is as deliberate as it is imperfect. Due to the shape of their in-house Cal. 233, it became the first shaped watch to ever be built in reverse, tasking Berneron to design the case around the movement instead of the other way around.  

This gives the Mirage an almost otherworldly appearance—melting, yet meticulously deliberate in every design element. It’s exemplary in its expression of Surrealism (Think Salvador Dalí’s The Persistence of Memory), transforming a fantastical art form into a tangible, wearable masterpiece unlike anything else.

Designing a harmonious timepiece is hard enough, but to purposefully warp and distort its elements in a way that not only preserves the flow but enhances its organic aesthetic requires a singular, audacious, and innovative vision. Berneron’s Mirage Sienna, however, does so with extreme skill and craftsmanship. This timepiece and all the creativity it represents stand as a bold reminder that, even after centuries of horological artistry, the watchmaking world still has a lot to learn. It’s because of this that Berneron’s maiden voyage into the industry has secured the Audacity Prize at this year’s GPHG Awards Ceremony.

Intl. Retail Price & Availability: CHF 61,000, order book re-opening 2025. Find out more at the Berneron Official Website

Iconic Prize: Piaget Polo ‘79

Piaget in the modern day is oftentimes overlooked, which is tragic. I believe they are one of the most criminally underrated watchmakers out there, and their illustrious heritage proves it. Once such example of this heritage is the returning Piaget Polo ‘79: A far cry from the Polo designs of the 21st Century, but one that was so groundbreaking and disruptive that its aesthetic still holds up to this day. This seems to be a sentiment that was shared by the rest of the GPHG Academy, as this incredible timepiece was crowned with the Iconic Watch Prize for 2024.

Related Reading: Piaget Brings Back An Icon With The Polo ’79

A major player in the sports watch revolution amidst the Quartz Crisis, the Piaget Polo ‘79 is an exquisitely refined watch that can take on the rigours of everyday wear. Water resistance, shock resistance, and ultra-thin wearability were the three key features of the original design, all of which still persist today. Despite being encased in 18k gold, the Polo ‘79 still features a 50m water resistance. A bit low for some dissidents, perhaps, but still uncommon amongst the 30m water resistance of equally dressy watches.

Speaking of, describing the Piaget Polo ‘79 as simply ‘dressy’ barely scratches the surface. The remastered design remains faithful to the extravagance of the original, complete with an uninterrupted set of striped gadroons across the case and dial of the watch. The most major (and perhaps only) change that Piaget made to the Polo ‘79 is the addition of an ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic movement, as opposed to the original’s quartz. Giving the watch it’s incredible 7.85mm thickness, the in-house 1200P1, is a welcome addition to the remaster. Beautifully decorated and visible through the sapphire caseback, it is also a wake-up call to those who still believe they can write off the Richemont brand’s horological talents. 

Aus. Retail Price & Availability: AU$120,000, available to order via Piaget.com and Piaget boutiques

Challenge Prize: Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6

My taste in watches has always been rather eclectic, in contrast to some of my peers. That’s hardly a bad thing, though – if we liked all the same things, everything would be boring! We even established a fun rule of thumb: ‘If Matt doesn’t like it, Mario probably will.’ I suppose, then, that the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6 is one of many manifestations of precisely what I look for in a watch. That is, if I could get a hold of it – The No. 6 is only available by raffle and Japanese domestic shipping only!

While the microbrand remains low-key and modest, the efforts of watchmaker Jiro Katayama have beat the Swiss at their own game, capturing the Challange Watch Prize for GPHG 2024. Founded by Katayama-san in 2008, Ōtsuka Lōtec is his outlet of creative horological expression, with a focus on creating watches that are machine-like in nature. While that seems like a normal lens with which to view a mechanical watch, the No. 6 is almost opposite to what the Berneron Mirage represents: Instead of organic, flowing shapes, the No. 6 is cold, raw, and unforgivingly industrial.

Don’t let appearances fool you, though. The Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6 is incredibly detailed in its own right, and every element works together to evoke a unique charm. The dial and crystal, taking inspiration from a Japanese desk fan, have been uniquely shaped; the crown has been situated at 2 o’clock as opposed to the usual 3; and exposed screws across the case and dial, accompanied by clear Arabic numerals and printed Japanese text, further enforce the utilitarian aesthetic.

While the design is charming in its own right, this is the Challenge category; Compromises had to be made somewhere, and an in-house movement might have ruled Ōtsuka Lōtec out of the competition. The Miyota 9015 that powers the No. 6 is hardly a horological marvel, but it is more than capable of getting the job done where it matters. However, it has also been extensively modified by Katayama-san, resulting in a module that allows for a double retrograde complication for the minutes and hours. This complication, most often seen in watches ten times the No.6’s price point, is an incredible and cost-effective modification of a seemingly bog-standard watch movement, and elevates this strangely beautiful timepiece above its contenders. 

Intl. Retail Price & Availability: ¥440,000, raffle & Japanese domestic shipping only. Find out more at the Ōtsuka Lōtec Official Website

The Results

Finally, here is a recap of all the results and nominated timepieces per category and speciality prize. Jeweller-watchmakers Van Cleef & Arpels made away with the most GPHG awards of any brand (3); And the award winners, though predominantly Swiss, also consisted of: France (3, Van Cleef & Arpels); Germany (1, Kudoke); Japan (1, Ōtsuka Lōtec); Finland (1, Voutilainen); and Malaysia (1, Ming).

INDIVIDUAL PRIZES (Open to All Contenders)

Aiguille D’Or

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar

ALL CATEGORIES

Ladies’ Watch Prize

• Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Jour Nuit
• Other Nominees: Hermès Cut, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm Diamond-Set,  Fabergé Colours Of Love Rose Gold Rainbow, Chopard Alpine Eagle 33, Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

• Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Brise d’Été
• Other Nominees: Andersen Genève Sakura x BCHH, Chaumet Swing, Fabergé Compliquée Butterfly Blooms Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura, Trilobe The Exquisite Hour Secret

Men’s Watch Prize

• Winner: Voutilainen – KV20i Reversed
• Other Nominees: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum, Garrick S3 Mk2, Grand Seiko SLGW003, Hajime Asaoka Tsunami “Art Deco”, Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

• Winner: De Bethune – DB Kind of Grande Complication
• Other Nominees: ArtyA Purity Central Tourbillon Blue, Byrne Meca, Chopard L.U.C Strike One, Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper, Kazuo Maeda Heures Universelles

Iconic Watch Prize

• Winner: Piaget – Piaget Polo ‘79
• Other Nominees: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler, Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, Hublot Classic Fusion Original Yellow Gold 29mm, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Urwerk Ur-102 Reloaded

Chronograph Watch Prize

• Winner: Massena Lab x Sylvain Pinaud – Chronograph Monopoussoir
• Other Nominees: Angelus Instrument De Vitesse, Louis Vuitton X Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe À Sonnerie, Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Split Seconds Chronograph, TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

Tourbillon Watch Prize

• Winner: Daniel Roth – Tourbillon Souscription
• Other Nominees: Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier, Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit”, Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary, Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

• Winner: Laurent Ferrier – Classic Moon Silver
• Other Nominees: Anton Suhanov Chronotope, IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture x Peter Speake, H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Chinese Calendar, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize

• Winner: Bovet 1822 – Récital 28 Prowess 1
• Other Nominees: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé, Mb&F HM11 Architect, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

Time Only Watch Prize

• Winner: H. Moser & Cie – Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
• Other Nominees: Berneron Mirage Sienna, Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer, Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier, Czapek Goutte D’eau, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Pf Micro-Rotor No Date

Jewellery Watch Prize

• Winner: Chopard – Laguna
• Other Nominees: Bvlgari Fenice, Damiani Margherita Desert Garden, Dior Montres Grand Soir Reine Des Abeilles, Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium, Piaget Aura

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize

• Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
• Other Nominees: Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone, Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Year Of The Dragon, Hermès Arceau Chorus Stellarum, Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Of Wonders Snake’s Jungle, Piaget Glowing Weave

Petite Aiguille Prize

• Winner: Kudoke – 3 Salmon
• Other Nominees: Amida Digitrend, Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Ariadne, Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture X Seconde/Seconde/, Furlan Marri Perpetual One, Tudor Black Bay 58 Gmt

Sports Watch Prize

• Winner: Ming – 37.09 Bluefin
• Other Nominees: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph X Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition, Singer Reimagined Divetrack, Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

Challenge Watch Prize

• Winner: Otsuka Lotec – No. 6
• Other Nominees: Beaubleu Seconde Française, Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase, Furlan Marri Disco Verde, kollokium Projekt 01, Spaceone Tellurium

In the modern world of entertainment, Jake Paul is a name that is impossible to ignore. He is a controversial influencer and entrepreneur who rose to fame through the internet trend of “vines” followed by Youtube. Jake Paul has amassed a huge following on social media for his outlandish content and for the lifestyle he displays.  

Jake Paul is more than just a social media and Youtube celebrity. He is also known for his business ventures and boxing, while also being in the spotlight for controversies and media attention. Over the years the Youtube star has expanded his career into starting his own clothing brand, while also stepping into the boxing ring. As controversial as his high-profile boxing fights may be, he has set out and achieved what he intended to do, gain internet fame, media attention and ultimately make a substantial amount of money from these ventures.  

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To put this into perspective, his latest boxing fight has been the talk of the town, with the YouTube star going up against retired professional boxer Mike Tyson. This was the first time that the subscription streaming service giant Netflix broadcasted the event live, showing just how popular and “in-demand” this fight was. Regardless of how the fight went, it’s safe to say that both boxers were the centre of attention the past few weeks to months, with Jake Paul advertising it constantly through his social media as well. This attention would have garnered more sponsors, deals and viewers for the fight, and in the end, more income for both! 

With Jake Paul striving for status and spectacle, his watch collection is no different. It is as bold and attention-grabbing as his career. He is well known for showing high-end, blinged-out timepieces (the Jacob and Co. Timepiece he wore to the Mike Tyson fight, for example). Jake Paul wears his watches to make a flashy statement.  

Jake Paul’s watch collection varies from diamond encrusted watches such as iced-out Rolexes, Audemars Piguet to Jacob and Co., to incredibly intricate and eye-catching timepieces such as the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon to the Richard Mille Abu Dhabi Special Edition.  

Jake Paul’s watch collection varies from diamond encrusted watches such as iced-out Rolexes, Audemars Piguet to Jacob and Co., to incredibly intricate and eye-catching timepieces such as the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon to the Richard Mille Abu Dhabi Special Edition.  

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Reference 26320ST Ice Out Edition

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This is a special version of Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak Chronograph, which has been customised to now be fully diamond encrusted. The case, bracelet, bezel and dial all feature diamonds, with the tri-counter’s for the chronograph remaining intact to still give the presence of the Royal Oak Chronograph sitting underneath all the shimmering glamour.  

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Vampire” Edition

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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Vampire” Edition is an attention-grabbing limited edition timepiece released as part of the brand’s Offshore collection. The watch gets its “Vampire” edition name due to its striking black and red colour scheme, which references the look a Vampire. The stainless steel case comes with a black ceramic bezel and a red rubber strap. The dial continues this black and red colour scheme with the black background contrasting against the red being used for the sub-counter hands as well as chronograph hands, along with the tachymeter scale.  

Richard Mille – RM-011 Abu Dhabi Special Edition

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This Richard Mille is exceptionally rare. The RM-011 FM sapphire Flyback Chronograph “Abu Dhabi Special Edition” was limited to only 5 timepieces. Jake Paul is fortunate to be one of the few to make the list. The watch features a sapphire crystal case with a skeletonised flyback chronograph dial. The hour indices are transparent, which plays in nicely with the sapphire crystal case. The blue colour seen throughout the timepiece is “Abu Dhabi Blue”, a colour that is also known as the speed colour.  

Cartier Two Tone Santos de Cartier Skeleton Diamonds

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It’s not every day we see a Cartier as blinged out as this, even if it is celebrity watch spotting. The Cartier Two-Tone Santos de Cartier Skeleton Diamonds is iced out to the max, with the entire watch being covered in aftermarket diamonds. The base of the timepiece is two-tone, which is 18k yellow gold for the bezel and screws, while the case and bracelet is stainless steel. The only part of this watch that doesn’t feature diamonds is the blue-steeled hands!  

Richard Mille – RM72-01 Automatic Winding Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph

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The Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle Automatic Chronograph adopts the design codes of modern-day Richard Mille’s whilst synthesizing the know-how accumulated by the brand over the past 20 years. The watch comes with the brand’s first in-house flyback chronograph, which features a patented design that is a coupling system that consists of two oscillating pinions that are mounted on rockers, which control the start, stop, flyback and reset functions.  

Richard Mille – RM11-03 ‘Ivory’

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Richard Mile’s RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ is an incredibly rare timepiece that features a 45mm case in white ceramic and titanium. The dial is skeletonised and features gold elements that make it stand out nicely. The RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ can only be purchased by brand VIP clients. It is also one of the most sought-after watches from Richard Mille, which could also be why it’s Jake Paul’s favourite timepiece, having been spotted on his wrist more times than any other watch in his collection.  

Jacob and Co. 18k White Gold Billionaire Ashoka Tourbillon

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Jacob and Co.’s latest Billionaire Ashoka Tourbillon is born out of the love Jacob Arabo (founder) has for diamonds. The Billionaire Ashoka timepiece takes everything to the next level, with a skeletonised dial and tourbillon complicaiton, the watch is entirely set with very large diamonds. The diamonds are also a special level of exclusivity, being Ashoka-cut diamonds. This cut was invented by William Goldberg and is derived from a classic emerald cut. A task of precision, the Ashoka cut gives the stone a larger appearance overall.  

Jacob and Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

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Back in 2019, Bugatti Automobiles and Jacob and Co. entered into a partnership that would see the creation of unrivalled hypercar-inspired timepieces. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is a masterpiece of artistic timepiece creations where it evokes the daring design and spirit of the Bugatti Chiron. The exterior shape of the Chiron inspires the case of the timepiece, while the movement references the Bugatti’s W16 engine block. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300 Turquoise Dial

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Released in 2020 amongst a variety of new Oyster Perpetual models with different dial colours was the stunning Turquoise dial Oyster Perpetual 124300. Nicknamed the “Tiffany Blue” dial due to the colour hue being the same as the iconic Tiffany colour, this Oyster Perpetual was incredibly popular, with many enthusiasts and collectors alike trying to get their hands on one. This is certainly one model in Jake Paul’s collection that is a bit more “down to Earth”.  

Rolex GMT Master II 18 Ct Everose Gold

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Released in 2018, Rolex’s GMT Master II in 18 Ct Everose Gold is a stunning model that’s worth over $60,000 AUD. To complement the case and bracelet, Everose gold material, the bezel features black and brown shades of ceramic. These two colours, as we know from Rolex GMT models, are used to indicate the “day” and “night” time. The material 18ct Everose gold was introduced by Rolex in 2005, which the brand has a patent for.

22 years ago, two brothers started a passion project born out of their and their Father’s love of flying and clocks. Their goal was to make British watchmaking great again, and bring it back to the fore. And like all good stories, out of tragedy, the brand Bremont was born. Most people familiar with Bremont would be familiar with its back story, with Nick and Giles English taking a leap of faith and starting Bremont after their Father’s death in a flying accident that almost killed Nick as well. It has a great origin story, and over the next 22 years, both Nick and Giles would build the brand to what we know it today.

However, like all brands and companies, they need to move with the times and evolve as the world does. In the world of luxury watches, the landscape can change dramatically and quickly, and while the larger brands and businesses can weather the storm of economic change, smaller independent brands are not as immune, and as a result, business leaders need to make decisions to help safeguard it. And this is exactly what Nick and Giles did with Bremont, bringing on industry veteran Davide Cerrato to take over the day-to-day operations of Bremont, and guide it into the next phase of its journey.

18 months into the role, Davide has made an impact on the brand, helping to steer Bremont into calmer waters through several initiatives, many of which we and the public saw at Watches & Wonders 2024 with the unveiling of a new logo, new brand direction and a new collection – the Terra Nova. While these changes caused a bit of a stir among the watch community, once the dust settled and people had a better look at the pieces and understood the new brand direction, all wasn’t as dire as first thought.

We caught up with Davide last month to talk to him about all this and where he is taking the brand, his vision for Bremont’s future and with Watch Advice having recently done a couple of reviews on the new Terra Nova pieces, how he sees the Terra Nova collection fitting into the wider suite of Bremont watches.

As always, Davide was dressed in his usual style – for anyone who’s met Davide, or seen him, the first thing you notice is his style, looking like he’s just done a shoot with British GQ. Even though he had battled traffic getting out of London where he lives, commuting to Oxfordshire where Bremont HQ is, he was as composed, polite and friendly as ever, and gave us an hour or more of his time to take us through the new look Bremont, and how he’s found working with the British brand now he has been there for a year and a half.

“I have found it so far super exciting! It is a fantastic independent brand, I very much love the independent dimension of the brand and the fact that it’s very unique because we’re in UK. It is not the usual place (talking about Swiss watchmaking) and you know, despite the fact that we’re in the UK, we have this incredible manufacturer that is the only end-to-end manufacturer in the UK. The legacy of the company also is very interesting so yeah I’m really excited, and it’s an intense, hectic, passionate time!”

The one thing that strikes you when talking to Davide is that he is a passionate watch guy. You have to be to have worked across so many brands as he has, and to have been in the industry for a long time. Having worked at HYT, TAG Heuer, Mont Blanc and perhaps most famously Tudor, his passion for the smaller and more independent brands comes across when he talks about Bremont, and the reasons as to why he joined the brand in the first place.

“Listen, I’ll be very transparent with you. I followed the path of Bremont since the beginning, because you know, if you’re in the industry you see what is happening, but the size and independent nature of the company was such that it was popping up here and there you know, it was not a continuous flow of information. So when I was contacted for this role, I was very intrigued and very curious. I moved from this surface, or generic knowledge of the (Bremont) story, to trying to understand the inception and the DNA of the company. I was very lucky to have had the opportunity to meet the brothers (talking about Nick and Giles) and to meet investors, and it really grew on me. It’s a fantastic, unique story, it is a human story with a lot of passion and a lot of dreams and big challenges – that’s everything I love!”

Talking with Davide about this, and how he felt he was suited for the role, it seems that in his eyes, the stars aligned for him to take the helm of Bremont.

“One of the investors said at the end of the process that when we met, it was like finding the right key to open a door, it just slid in, it’s true. The fact that Bremont has been in this segment so long, been in sports watches for so long, it was really in a way different paths that were colliding into something that was in a way natural. I did have a lot of journalists tell me that it makes sense in effect, the fit is evident, so I was lucky, very lucky.”

RELATED READING: Bremont Introduces New Terra Nova 40.5 Power Reserve

As mentioned, Bremont is entering into a new phase, a new era for the brand. All brands evolve, they have to otherwise they will be left behind. We talk to Davide about this evolution, and the reason behind the brand refresh from his perspective as it’s not something that’s been widely talked about since the brand re-launch earlier this year.

“What we’re doing is evolving the brand towards the next step of development of Bremont, and now the brand is 22 years old and with history comes evolution. You know, if you want to remain relevant, any brand out there needs to be capable of refreshing, adapting to the new trends, to the new tastes of the consumer and so on, and that’s exactly what we’re doing. The changes we have put together are helping the brand to stay relevant and helping the brand to appeal to a wider group of customers.”

“The brand’s story has been heavily rooted in the UK, the culture, customers and their specific needs. We are present in the US, Australia and Hong Kong, but the real international development has not yet completely happened. The evolution that we are applying to the brand is framed exactly to allow us to be stronger in other countries, like Australia.”

To us, this makes sense. When you think about Bremont, it has a great story: A revival of British watchmaking, a strong link to the British armed forces and also the collaboration it has with ejection seat manufacture and British company, Martin-Baker. Added to this, the strong aviation theme that runs through many of the collections thanks to Giles and Nick English’s affinity for flying and vintage aircraft. However, as Davide puts it, this unfortunately isn’t enough for the brand to thrive in 2024 when looking at breaking into other countries and a wider audience – generally speaking, something that is needed in today’s watch industry.

“The choice of adventure and exploration as the key message is perfect for you in Australia, and it is perfect for the US where there is a very strong outdoor culture. Adventure and exploration have already been embedded in the brand since 2014, so we’re just focusing on that to make it even clearer that we do sports watches or tool watches. The inception of the company and the story of Bremont is about a kind of obsession for robustness, like the Martin-Baker story which is about extreme robustness, accuracy, and visibility – all the dimensions of a perfect sports watch. So, all we have done is clarify that our universe is linked to adventurous exploration with sea, land and air  – a very old, but very clear segmentation.”

This clear segmentation, as Davide states is an old one, but hey, it seems to work when it comes to sports watches as each have a clear style, design codes, and a clear purpose for their intended use – even if most people who buy them won’t use them for that, but this is where the inspiration and aspirational elements of watches come in to play for the consumer. Davide elaborates on this…

“There is a dimension of outdoors and nature there that is very interesting for the future of the brand because we can inject elemental sustainability, something that is very relevant for the new generation. On top of this, clarifying our message to that of adventure and exploration. This is evident in the new campaign, ‘Take It Further’, that pitches this mindset that adventurers and explorers have, and thanks to which, they can achieve things that everyone else imagines are impossible. So our pitch is if you have a dream, and you apply the same mindset, you can achieve it!”

It is a nice sentiment, and as Davide says, one that Bremont has honed in on for the past decade, and one reason why they have associated themselves with adventurers and explorers who showcase the limits of what humans can do. This then leads us into the new collection, the Terra Nova which was launched earlier in the year. It is a new style for Bremont, deviating from aviation and focusing on the ‘land’ segment with vintage-inspired field watches.

“We have launched a new line, which is the Terra Nova and we are really leveraging our long ties with the military and really looking back to military pocket watches, World War I watches, with the big numerals and style. We’re taking this further with the release of the collaboration with Jimmy Chin, a limited edition Terra Nova” (talking about the new solid gold and two-tone Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph launched last month in New York)

RELATED READING: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

Davide explains that the new line has been designed to pay tribute to the British armed forces still, with the style cues of the old pocket watches and field watches of the early 1900s and this was important to do this as it made sense to stay with the heritage of the brand. And while many people thought that this new collection was a complete departure from Bremont’s current collection, Davide makes a good point – the other collections are still within Bremont, and are still important, but the Terra Nova was the new collection to bring to market and showcase this year.

“I perfectly get that there are people that have been surprised and there are people that have gotten very emotional. I think there was a bit of a misunderstanding also linked to the fact that the decision to bring the brand to Watches & Wonders. The brand hasn’t done any fairs for a long time and when these people saw what we were presenting, they thought that was the only thing remaining at Bremont and everything else was stopped and it was not the case. If you go into a boutique today, the novelties probably represent 10%, and the other 90% is still the previous collections. In one to two years time, the overall architecture will be very clear and the change is much less dramatic than it was framed.”

Admittedly, even we as media and journalists fell into this trap a little, thinking that Bremont has departed from its heritage completely. But on reflection, and now talking to Davide, it’s not really the case. Yes, the brand has evolved and the new Terra Nova collection is an example of it, however, hearing how he wants to evolve the other collections, along with the brand is more interesting, and seeing some of the new Supermarine models released just this week, I see now what he is talking about. Different model lines need their own distinct design codes – not all watches need the Trip-Tick case design, as this was done primarily for the Martin-Baker collection to help alleviate excess vibrations and other factors when you’re a combat pilot.

“It is really an evolution – to keep everything that was very good in the brand, but to add or fine-tune or sharpen some elements that can make the brand even more relevant and even more unique. We have reframed the Supermarine line, addressing very clear and simple demands coming from our customers. The Trip-Tick case that was born with Martin-Baker was born in aviation and was born to absorb vibrations, to be anti-magnetic, hardened steel to be a little bit of an indestructible watch, and this will continue to stay by the way. But, when we look at diving watches, you don’t need those technical features (like the Martin-Baker), you can shrink it a little bit, make it a little thinner…”

It’s not just the designs that Davide is working with the teams on, he is also looking to evolve all the products to be better, use better materials and make sports watches that hold up to the environment where you would want to wear them, and just plain wear better overall.

“At the same time, we made a huge investment when we decided to use a 904L steel. It is much more resistant, much more anti-corrosive and it shines much more. We wanted the watches to be easy to service, we have added the new generation Super-LumiNova over the last generation to have much better visibility, so it’s really taking what was already existing and now working on the long-term vision of constantly improving things and specialising each one of the lines as much as possible”

Now, speaking from experience, the new bracelets on the Terra Nova range are a vast improvement on the old bracelets of Bremont old. Gone are the chunky links that felt out of place as is the clasp that didn’t do justice to any of the watches. Instead, the new generation of Bremont bracelets, at least on the Terra Nova range, are much more refined, easier to wear, more comfortable, and now feel like they belong on a watch at the price points they are. If Bremont and Davide can extend this style of bracelet, or similar depending on the style of watches they’re designed for across the rest of the range, then I feel this is a win for both the brand and consumers. He continues to talk about the plans for the pilot’s collection:

“The one collection we have not touched at all is the pilot line because it’s an evolution and a transition and we really wanted to do it step by step. Next year we will present this line a little refreshed, that, once again is not at all a dramatic evolution. There were concerns about the thickness, the size, and concerns about the the ring of the Martin-Baker that is a little bit abrasive, but we have addressed all this. The design will be very close to the original one, the Trip-Tick case will always be there…”

So it seems that Davide is taking a very measured approach to the evolution of Bremont. Yes, we all saw the new collection and new branding at Watches & Wonders, and for many it was a little shock as it seemed that this change happened overnight. But as Davide has stated, this was a while in the making, and the changes have been worked on for a long time and Watches & Wonders 2024 was a grand unveiling. Could all this have happened a little more gradually to alleviate some of the shock for enthusiasts and lovers of Bremont? Perhaps. But sometimes it is easy to just make a splash and get it out there, and then give people time to get used to it. Davide sums it up possibly more eloquently than me.

“You will see between one and two years time the full architecture of the brand, everyone will understand that there was no revolution, there was no shock, people just saw the first piece of the change and when you see the whole architecture and how that is encapsulated, it will become much clearer and it will make much more sense.”

“For me, it’s easy because I see the full architecture of how the brand will look at the end of this process and evolution. For you, for the customer, it is more difficult because at the beginning you just see bits and pieces, you don’t see the architecture, so we need a little bit of time to frame it. And, already from next Watches & Wonders and from the 12 months that will follow, you will see now how the brand architecture works really well, and how much in reality the DNA is really preserved – all the elements of Britishness are super important for us.”

What Davide says here is correct, it is hard to see a vision for a brand’s future from the outside, we just see the first changes and ask the question – why? But when brands start to evolve or change, there is a roadmap in place, and the only ones who see this roadmap are people like Davide and the team back at Bremont, so we just have to trust that they are on the right track. Personally, I feel that they are. They have to be, as we all know the company was not in great shape, as had been widely reported, and we all love an underdog and a comeback story, but unlike the 2 hour Hollywood movie, this takes time and effort to execute. But he is not alone. Davide explains that the brand has so many talented people now working for it with an intrinsic belief in it, and this is exactly what you need!

“It’s really, really exciting and new. There is a strong energy, people are incredibly passionate with a lot of young people in the company, and now we have brought in some older people (I put myself in the older category) from the watch-making world. People with very specific experiences and this is creating a very unique environment where these competencies can be shared. Ideas flow very quickly and there is a very strong engagement of everyone, so it’s really exciting, really really exciting!”

Davide and the wider team at Bremont had just come off a planning and strategy day before we spoke to him, so we asked about this, and how the people at Bremont have embraced the new away forward and team values…

“In reality, these drivers have been embedded in the company since, well, forever. I would say they were aurally shared and passed from generation to generation before, and we have just done the exercise of writing them down and sharing them. If it’s clear, if it’s written, it is much easier to understand, much easier to share and easier to incarnate in a way. Sometimes with this family feeling that you have in a smaller company and in an independent brand, many things are really aurally transmitted by voice, and some people have been there a long time that function a bit like the museum, or the memory of the brand, they’re like our database! So we just did the exercise of framing it and sharing it with everyone. Actually, we had a full day of fun trying to live it with the help of Bremont Ambassador, Jason Fox who is a really super engaging and funny human. It was really exciting, and people are getting more and more excited, so it’s very nice, plus they welcomed an Italian into the UK, which isn’t common!” (which he laughs at!)

Davide is taking all his expertise, and funnelling this into Bremont and the new direction. It won’t be an easy road, however. Pushing into new markets, widening the customer base, bringing new fans into the fold and converting old fans over to the new look Bremont. But, his track record and background would suggest he’ll succeed as both a CEO and designer and it would also seem that the wider team have, and are working towards this new and clear direction.

Having spoken to him in person, seeing the passion he has for Bremont, and wanting it to succeed as an independent brand in a category that’s dominated by the large watch industry players, our money is on him. But like all things, only time will tell. We will keep up to date and across Bremont’s progress and hopefully catch up with Davide again in person at Watches & Wonders 2025 to see the next phase of the brand’s evolution.

Cartier is perhaps one of the best-known watch brands in the world, and rightfully so. Their pieces are timeless and classic, with a style to suit all tastes. You can not watch a red carpet event without seeing an A-list celebrity wearing Cartier. Celebrity style aside, Cartier has a rich history of watchmaking, and most notable, (which we have covered here), is the advent of the world’s first wristwatch and pilots watch in the form of the Cartier Santos.

Last year, we held a similar event at the Cartier Boutique in Brisbane, showcasing the 2023 Watches & Wonders novelties, and for those lucky enough to get an invite, thoroughly enjoyed the night. As a result, we were not short of requests when it came to this year’s event, focusing on the watchmaking of Cartier, and to say all enjoyed themselves would be an understatement!

Guests were greeted in style with Canapés and Champagne, old friends catching up and new friends getting to know each other, all with one thing in common – watches!

To kick off each night, all were welcomed by Nicola Ashworth, Cartier Watches Australian Marketing Manager, Chantal Pankov, Cartier’s Brisbane Boutique Manager and Chamath Gamage, Watch Advice Founder.

But, it didn’t take long for people to get straight into checking out the watches on show, with the guests getting right in at the start and trying on a range of pieces on display before the formalities started.

What makes this type of event unique is the intimacy. The ability to sit down almost one-on-one with those who know the brand best, and can tell the stories behind the watches. While larger events are great, don’t get us wrong, but only having a small group of watch enthusiasts who can see, play with, and try on all the pieces and take their time with them allows people to connect with the watches. What is amazing to see is the look on people’s faces and the way they light up when they try on a piece they may not have considered or been on their radar at all!

On show were some incredible pieces. Some of these you’re able to buy in the current Cartier catalogue, but some of the pieces were very special, with only one of two pieces available in the country, and like all exclusive pieces, will go to a deserving client.

Of course, there were quite a few Cartier watches on display on people’s wrists, with the guests proudly wearing their personal pieces. Watch events are always great watch-spotting opportunities, and when it comes to Cartier, people show this love perhaps more than any other brand!

Cartier are known for their watch shapes, and across the collection, you can see this come to life with the variety of models, from Santos, to Pasha, to Baignoire to Cloche and Tortue. However, the also do some amazing high-watchmaking with the like of the Pasha de Cartier in Rose Gold, diamond set bezel and tourbillon with the Cartier logo embedded, or the Rélévation d’une Panthère which uses gold beads to release the Panther’s head within the dial of the watch.

In addition to the great timepieces on show, it wouldn’t be a Cartier event without some of the jewellery, both high jewellery with the likes of Panthère and lifestyle pieces, such as the bracelets you can pair and stack with each other, or if you’re inclined, the watches!

Over the two nights, all guests saw some amazing pieces, many of which were available just for our event, so we feel lucky and privileged to partner with Cartier and the Cartier Australian team to make this happen and to allow some members of our watch community to be able to see these pieces. We look forward to doing it all again in 2025!