Sameera Gamage – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au Luxury watch reviews, news & advice Wed, 11 Dec 2024 06:11:04 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/watchadvicelogo.png Sameera Gamage – Watch Advice https://www.watchadvice.com.au 32 32 Our Christmas Gift Guide To Chronographs https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38483/christmas-gift-guide-chronograph-timepieces/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38483/christmas-gift-guide-chronograph-timepieces/#comments Fri, 06 Dec 2024 07:33:27 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=38483 It’s Christmas time, which means the man in the red suit will be coming soon. This year, we’ve assembled a range of gift guides to help you pick something for that special someone—even if that someone is yourself! Today, it’s all about chronograph watches!

The search for the perfect gift begins with the festive season well and truly among us! For watch enthusiasts and those who appreciate watches, a well-crafted chronograph is an appealing model to add to the collection. Chronograph timepieces have become a symbol of versatility, combining functionality and aesthetic appeal. This Christmas, whether it’s for yourself, a loved one, or a friend who is into watches, a finely crafted chronograph may indeed be the perfect gift.

Chronographs are timepieces that are instruments of precision and utility. When chronograph models were originally developed, they were created for pilots, racers, and divers, for whom measuring time was crucial to the profession. From timing laps on a racetrack to calculating speeds or even keeping track of everyday events, chronograph timepieces are certainly a useful tool that comes with a dose of elegance. In the modern day, however, chronograph timepieces have gone beyond their functional origins to become icons of watchmaking design.

When it comes to the world of horology, the variety of chronograph timepieces you’ll find is staggering. Brands are always trying to innovate and incorporate new designs into this iconic complication, such as innovating the simple chronograph mechanism further by creating complications such as the split-second chronograph, rattrapante chronograph or even the flyback chronograph. When it comes to aesthetic design, there is a range of styles to suit various tastes as well. From the classic two-register layouts to modern three-register chronographs or configurations like the rattrapantes and flybacks, each type offers a unique story and appeal!

When choosing a chronograph timepiece as a gift, it is essential to consider the lifestyle of the recipient. Do they love motorsports? In that case, they may prefer chronographs with tachymeters, which are reminiscent of early chronographs used for racing. Maybe they like to travel the world, so a world-time chronograph would be a perfect gift. Or maybe in their downtime, they like to go diving, for which a divers chronograph watch would suit them great! It could also be simply that they like the look of a chronograph watch; the sight of a chronograph in action, its sweeping hands measuring time with the precision of the intricate and complex movement inside, can certainly be appealing. Whatever the passion or reason, a chronograph is a great addition to any watch collection. While there are too many chronograph models released this year to list, we’ve chosen some great stand-out pieces, shown below, that will cater to a variety of tastes, preferences and budget!

A. Lange & Söhne 

Datograph Up/Down 750 White Gold

A.Lange & Sohne introduced a new version of the Datograph Up/Down, this time presented in a 750 white gold case with an aesthetic blue dial with white counters. The Datograph Up/Down features a flyback chronograph mechanism, a precisely jumping minute counter, an outsize date and a power-reserve indicator. The flyback mechanism allows two quick consecutive time measurements, with virtually no delay between these. The chronograph is stopped, reset to zero, and started again in next to no time.

  • Reference:  405.028
  • International Recommended Retail Price: Price upon request

For More Information, Visit: Alange-soehne.com

Audemars Piguet

Code 11.59 Self-winding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet created quite the buzz when they released the Code 11.59 collection. This latest 18-carat pink gold version brings forth the latest design evolution for the Code 11.59 Chronograph, with the stand out signature embossed dial now being presented in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade. The blue contrasts beautifully against the pink gold of the case and dial to make a very attractive-looking timepiece.

RELATED READING: Audemars Piguet Drops Seven New Code 11:59 Pieces

  • Reference:  26393OR.OO.A348KB.01
  • International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 43,300 

For More Information, Visit: AudemarsPiguet.com

Breitling

Chronomat B01 42 Arctic White Australian Limited Edition

As part of Breitling’s 140th anniversary celebrations, the brand has released a limited-edition version dedicated to Australia and New Zealand. Limited to just 140 models, this timepiece features a crisp “Arctic White” dial done in a matte white coating to give it an almost lacquer dial look. The black counters for the chronograph functions not only contrast well, but also gives the dial the panda look.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition

  • Reference: AB01344B1A1S1
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $12,190

For More Information, Visit: Breitling.com.au

Glashuette Original

SeaQ Chronograph

The latest version of Glashuette Original’s SeaQ Chronograph has a not-so-straightforward black-and-white look. The dial features two subcounters with the outer rings being done in black, while the date window at 6 o’clock is oversized and is also done in black to stay in the colour theme. What makes this watch stand out, however, is the dial finish. The dial finish is achieved by using a galvanic silver dial that makes use of the same optical effect that cinema screens once achieved using a thin coat of silver paint: the surface reduces the dispersion of light to a minimum and enables more excellent contrast than a traditional white background.

RELATED READING: Introducing The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”

  • Reference: 1-37-23-03-80-34
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $23,000

For More Information, Visit: Glashuette-original.com

Hublot

Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Hublot released two new colours for their Big Bang Unico collection, one in bright orange and another in a military green proving once again, that they’re masters of the coloured ceramic watch! This is arguably the first time bright orange ceramic has been used to create a watch case, showing Hublot’s daring spirt of innovation and being different.

Related Reading: Hublot Adds Two New Colours To The Big Bang Unico Collection

  • Reference: 441.CU.5910.RX
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $44,100 

For More Information, Visit: Hublot.com.au

Seiko

Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph

Seiko has quite the extensive collection of Proxpex Speedtimer Solar Chronographs, providing a timepiece for a variety of tastes and colour preferences. This latest model, however, is arguably the stand-out timepiece of the collection. It features a striking sunburst gold dial with black counters in direct contrast. The tachymeter bezel is done in blue and red, further spicing up what is one colourful timepiece.

  • Reference: SSC947
  • International Recommended Retail Price: AUD $1,100

For More Information, Visit: Seikowatches.com.au

Swatch x Omega

Moonswatch Mission To Earthphase

The Swatch x Omega was all the buzz and hype when the Moonswatch was first introduced. Since then, the two brands have slowly been drip-feeding new models into the collection. One of the latest is the Mission to Earthphase, which comes with a grey dial with a grain texture to resemble the moon’s surface. What’s cool about this edition, however, is that it boasts both a moon phase and a patented earth phase function. Two oversized moons with Super-LumiNova® (white emission) can be seen on the moon phase disc, which rotates in the subdial set at 2 o’clock. The earth phase function located in the subdial at 10 o’clock is coloured.

  • Reference: Mission To Earthphase
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $525.00

For More Information, Visit: Swatch.com

TAG Heuer

Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Silver Panda

Combining classic racing heritage with modern silver charm, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Silver Panda has many little details that make this one of the best Carrera models yet. While the case has the signature Carrera styling, it’s the dial that makes this watch drool-worthy. When you look at the Sunray silver panda dial, you’ll see that it has a brushed finish. Combine this with the circular engraved sub-dials and the touches of red found throughout the dial, and it quickly becomes a very aesthetically pleasing dial with a lot to offer!

RELATED READING: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda!

  • Reference: CBS2216.BA0041
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $9,650

For More Information, Visit: Tagheuer.com.au

Tudor

Black Bay Chrono

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono released this year, is offered in two colour variants. Firstly we get the standard blue (which is still beautiful too) with contrasting white hour indices and hands. The second, which is just stunning, is the pink dial variant. There aren’t many pink dial offerings in the market today, and Tudor has absolutely nailed this colour. Presented on the 5-link bracelet, this watch is elegant, classy and looks stunning!

  • Reference: m79360n-0019
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $8,370

For More Information, Visit: Tudorwatch.com

Zenith

Defy Skyline Chronograph

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith released a chronograph version of their highly popular Defy Skyline model. The Defy Skyline Chronograph keeps the design of the Defy Skyline intact, while now enhancing it with a 1/10th second chronograph function. The model is presented in either a blue dial or white dial, with the white dial variant getting a colourful green strap. Both dials also feature Zenith’s iconic star logo imprinted onto the dial. which adds a subtle aesthetic detail to the chronograph dial.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

  • Reference: Ref 03.9500.3600/01.I00
  • Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $20,700

For More Information, Visit: Zenith-watches.com


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INTRODUCING: IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue Dial https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38396/introducing-iwc-schaffhausen-ingenieur-automatic-40-blue-dial/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38396/introducing-iwc-schaffhausen-ingenieur-automatic-40-blue-dial/#respond Tue, 03 Dec 2024 09:16:24 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=38396 IWC Schaffhausen adds another classic colour to the Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection, making the signature checkered dial stand out even more beautifully!

IWC Schaffhausen is bringing, most likely, the last update to the Ingenieur collection this year with a new blue dial variant for the Automatic 40 timepiece. IWC Schaffhausen currently has a variety of colours available in the Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection; however, adding the blue dial variant finishes off the three standard colour offerings of black, white and blue dials. In addition to these colours, IWC Schaffhausen also offers a beautiful and unique aqua dial and a grey dial.

The all-new IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue Dial

The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur has quite the heritage too. For those new to the world of horology, the Ingenieur represented a shift in watchmaking for the luxury Swiss watchmaker when it was first released in 1955. IWC Schaffhausen introduced the Ingenieur as a response to the increasing magnetic fields in everyday life, particularly in professional environments. To combat this, The Ingenieur featured an anti-magnetic soft iron inner cage, which protected the movement from magnetic interference. This was a crucial innovation especially for engineers and scientists, now allowing them to wear timepieces in their professional environment.

Unlike most heritage lines in the world of watchmaking, the original design of the Ingenieur didn’t carry through the ages. In 1976, the Ingenieur collection went through a major update and facelift. The famous watch designer Gerald Genta took hold of the Ingenieur and gave it his magic touch, just like he had done with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak a couple of years prior. When you look at the two designs, you will certainly see similarities between the Royal Oak and the Ingenieur, from the tonneau-shaped case to the bezel with screws design to the integrated bracelet. From this point forward, both these models will go on to be iconic in the world of horology and become signature timepieces for both brands.

Related Reading: Masters of Time: The IWC Journey Through the Ages

This latest version of the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 (Ref. IW328907) comes with a 40mm case, bezel and integrated H-link bracelet that is all made from stainless steel. IWC Schaffhausen have re-engineered the case to be more ergonomic to ensure excellent wearability. To enhance the visual aesthetics of the timepiece, IWC Schaffhausen has given the Ingenieur Automatic 40 multiple different finishes.

The bezel itself features a brushed finish on the surface, while the side profile has a polished finish. The case then features vertical brushed finishing (in the opposite direction to the bezel), and like the bezel, the chamfered edges have a polished finish. Finally, the bracelet follows suit, with the surface being a vertical brushed finish to match the case, while the chamfered edges are polished. This ultimately creates a timepiece that plays beautifully with light. The varied finishing of brushed to polish also lets the polished surfaces stand out more, creating an elegant timepiece.

The dial of this latest Ingenieur Automatic 40 keeps the signature and characteristic “grid” structure dial, which consists of small lines and squares stamped into a soft iron base using high pressure. Afterwards, IWC Schaffhausen applies this gorgeous new blue colour with a PVD coating. The rhodium-plated baton hands and the applied metal marker are all filled with Super-LumiNova® luminescent mass to ensure perfect legibility in all lighting conditions.

The engine inside powering this new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre movement. This self-winding automatic movement features an efficient double-pawl winding system. What is a double-pawl winding system, you may ask? Well, simply put, it’s a system that uses two pawls (levers) instead of one to engage with the ratchet wheel or similar. This effectively ensures a smoother operation and increases reliability since both pawls/levers can contribute to winding the mainspring. The 32111 calibre movement with this system can offer up to 5 days (120 hours) of power reserve.

Final Thoughts

If you are after a more “affordable” dress watch that has the looks, mechanical prowess and a rich history, then the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 is an ideal candidate. The timepiece fits well on the wrist thanks to the integrated H-link bracelet. The design is also iconic; the true work of Gerald Genta is still kept intact after almost 50 years, bar resizing of the timepiece to suit modern standards. If you want a full hands-on review of this model besides the dial colour change, Mario has done a deep dive into the aqua-coloured IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 released during Watches & Wonders this year.

Related Reading: REVIEW: Hands On With The IWC Ingenieur

This new blue dial variant brings a classic colour that stands out beautifully. Like the aqua dial version, the blue has a sunburst finish, which gives the dial different shades of blue depending on the light angle. The rhodium-plated hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova, which not only aids in nighttime visibility but also provides a stark contrast against the blue dial during the daytime. The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 reflects bold aesthetic codes and has high ergonomics, wearability, finishing and movement technology standards while also now finished in an attractive blue dial.

Reference: IW328907

Specifications

  • Case Size: 40mm case diameter x 10.7mm thickness
  • Case Material: Brushed and polished Stainless steel
  • Dial: Blue with a checkerboard pattern
  • Water resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
  • Movement: Automatic Cal. 32111 movement
  • Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
  • Power reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
  • Bracelet: Stainless steel with sequential butterfly folding clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$17,300

Availability: Available now from IWC Boutiques or online at IWC.com

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Crystal Clear: Redifining Transparency In Watchmaking With Their Stunning Sapphire Creations! https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37979/crystal-clear-redifining-transparency-in-watchmaking-with-their-stunning-sapphire-creations/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37979/crystal-clear-redifining-transparency-in-watchmaking-with-their-stunning-sapphire-creations/#respond Tue, 03 Dec 2024 01:30:13 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=37979 Innovation isn’t always comfortable, but Hublot’s sapphire pieces are unapologetically exceptional.

Watchmaking innovation often involves a deep respect for traditional craftsmanship while pursuing groundbreaking ideas. Few watch brands in the world of horology today personify this balancing act as boldly as Hublot. The brand is known for its avant-garde designs and material choices, allowing it to carve out a niche in the watch industry that is as polarizing as it is groundbreaking.

What I personally like about Hublot is their willingness to push the envelope. It is not purely about aesthetics or mechanical sense, but also about bringing something entirely different to the industry. In a world where many brands like to play it safe, sticking to the tried-and-true, watchmakers like Hublot are a much-needed source of creativity and daring spirit.

Hublot has become somewhat of a love-or-hate brand, and a lot of the time it’s formed by un-informed opinions. Matt covers this in great detail in his article about the misconceptions of Hublot, and it is true how when you go on social media, a lot of the negativity comes from people listening to influencers or celebrities that want to make “clickbait” worthy headlines or topics of discussion because it is the trend at the moment. It’s even worse then when the uninformed comment without doing research or educating themselves, i.e following the “herd”.

RELATED READING: Is Hublot The Most Misunderstood Brand In The Industry?

While no brand is perfect, and everyone has flaws, certain brands out there don’t come close to Hublot’s innovation and future-thinking, and yet they are recognised much more positively due to having more popularity and a cult following. And I get it; you still need traditional designs and watches with classic styling, but it shouldn’t mean that we dismiss brands that are on the other-end of the spectrum who try to create truly unique pieces.

Hublot’s designs will not cater to everyone’s tastes, and that is precisely the point. Hublot thrives on challenging conventions, appealing to those who “dare to embrace the extraordinary.” One of the boldest examples of the brand’s daring spirit is its sapphire creations. By taking a material traditionally reserved for protective crystals and transforming it into an integral part of the watch (case, dial, bracelet), Hublot has redefined the boundaries of what luxury watches can look like.


“We bring our dreams to life by creating new materials. At the forefront of innovation. At the forefront of creation.”
Hublot


Introduced by Jean-Claude Biver when he revitalised the brand in the early 2000s, Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” is a philosophy that is the brand’s guiding principle. This philosophy is the idea of bringing together traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with innovative materials and modern/futuristic/artistic designs. Hublot states, “To achieve its “Art of Fusion,” the Manufacture has its own Metallurgy and Materials laboratory, working in close collaboration with the Research and Development department, as well as its own foundry. These innovative materials are created and manufactured using the latest technologies, unique in watchmaking and developed by Hublot”.

The Hublot engineers and chemists, in search of the perfect fusion between movement and case, have researched and developed a transparent material that shows the heart of the timepiece. This transparent material was also created to be robust enough to protect the movement sitting inside. Through the research and development from the manufacturer’s Metallurgy and Materials laboratory, the brand has quickly become an expert in synthetic sapphire.

What is Sapphire?

To comprehend how watchmakers like Hublot use sapphire in their timepieces, we first need to gain an understanding of what this material is. Simply put, sapphire is a crystalline form of aluminium oxide (AI203) known as corundum. Sapphires are found naturally, formed deep within the Earth’s crust over millions of years when aluminium and oxygen atoms combine under intense heat and pressure. This resulting process creates metamorphic rocks, which sapphires can be found inside of. Due to the complex geological processes that are involved in the creation, sapphires are extremely rare gemstones. Through its natural creation, sapphires can be found in many different colours, including pink, purple, green, orange, teal, yellow, peach, white and blue.

Sapphires can of course also be made synthetically. By artificially creating sapphires, manufacturers can save a lot of time and money rather than sourcing natural stones. These are just the surface-level benefits. The more appealing side to synthetic sapphires is that you can create whatever shape or size is required for the design.

Gemsociety states that “There are two types of methods for artificially creating sapphires: melt processes, which involve melting aluminium oxide into a sapphire droplet, and solution processes, which grow sapphire crystals in a solution.” Also known as the Verneuil method, the “melting process” The most inexpensive and oldest melt process is known as flame fusion. In this method, a flame melts aluminium oxide powder (the principal mineral in corundum). The drops form into a long teardrop shape called a “boule.” The addition of other minerals to the aluminium oxide can create coloured varieties of sapphire. 

Why use Sapphire In Watchmaking? The Material’s Unique Appeal

Sapphire has long been valued for its hardness and optical clarity. Its aesthetics allow it to be see-through (if transparent), while different colours of sapphire offer visuals that no other material can. This optical clarity of the material enhances the visibility of the dial and its movement, which makes it a great material when considering case design.

Image Reference: The rare gemstone company.

Sapphire’s properties also make it invaluable, especially in watchmaking. Sapphire ranks nine on the Mohs hardness scale, making it highly resistant to scratches. To put it into perspective, aluminium ranks around 2.75, steel ranks around 4.5, and titanium ranks six on the Mohs hardness scale. This makes sapphire considerably stronger than traditional watchmaking materials; however, of course, the downside is the accessibility to the material and high production costs.

Evolution of Sapphire in Watchmaking

Rolex – Pioneer of Integrating Sapphire Into Watchmaking

Image Reference: Bob’s Watches

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre and Omega were some of the first to use synthetic sapphire on watch crystals, Rolex was one of the first brands to fully adopt synthetic sapphire into their watchmaking, starting with the watch crystals. It began in the 1970s when Rolex started replacing the acrylic glass with sapphire crystals to enhance durability and scratch resistance. With the material mentioned above properties of sapphire, it made for the perfect material to not only be able to see through very clearly but also have the strength to protect the dial from shocks, scratches, and hits.

Corum – Pushing the Boundaries of Transparency

After Rolex integrated sapphire, Corum was another early adopter of the sapphire material. Corum was one of the first brands to experiment with sapphire in innovative ways. In the 1980s, the luxury Swiss watchmaker started to experiment with sapphire material. Corum released the “Golden Bridge” timepiece. What made this watch stand out was the fact that it was fully visible. The timepiece features a sapphire crystal case back, which allows the wearer to see through the watch entirely. The Golden Bridge timepiece featured a fully visible baguette-shaped movement framed by a sapphire crystal. This can also be seen as the first time a brand has used sapphire in the watch case “construction”.

Richard Mille – Revolutionising Sapphire Case Making

Although not the first to create a sapphire watch case, Richard Mille was the first brand to truly revolutionise sapphire case making in the 21st century. The brand’s release of the RM 056-01 in 2012 was extraordinary. It was the first time the world of horology saw a fully sapphire timepiece featuring movement complications. Due to the complexity of creating a sapphire watch case, it took approximately 1000 hours of machining, forming, and polishing sapphire case components to create this masterpiece.

Hublot – Taking Sapphire Creations To New Heights

Richard Millie’s RM056 puts into perspective just how difficult it is to create a sapphire timepiece. Before Hublot began their Sapphire journey, they learnt the processes and techniques required for watchmaking and built an in-house manufacturing laboratory to experiment, design and create sapphire timepieces.

Hublot’s first fully sapphire case came in 2016, when the brand introduced the Big Bang Unico Sapphire. The timepiece showcased the entire movement inside the transparent case, and just like the RM056, it brought new light into the world of watchmaking.

The brand then took the world of sapphire creations by storm by making them accessible, this time in colour. They were the brand to pioneer the use of vibrant colours in sapphire watchmaking, by introducing colours such as purple, red, blue, yellow and orange. This solidified Hublot’s position as the leader in sapphire innovation!

Challenges and Triumphs of Hublot Using Sapphire Material

As mentioned previously, creating synthetic sapphire is certainly no easy task. Richard Mille taking 1000 hours to create and perfect their full sapphire case timepiece with the RM061 puts into perspective how challenging the task really is. This makes it all the more impressive that Hublot has nailed down this process not only to make it more efficient but also to create watches that are sustainable and cost-effective so that they are still somewhat attainable, with the lowest-priced sapphire watch being the clear transparent Unico Sapphire 42mm fetching for $107,000 AUD currently.

To get to this point, however, Hublot had to face some incredibly hard challenges. When I had the chance to visit the Hublot Manufacture in Switzerland this year, I spent quite a bit of time understanding their material processes, especially sapphire, as that was what intrigued me the most.

Hublot’s process of creating Sapphire is like the Kyropoulus method, whereby pure aluminium oxide is melted and crystallised into large sapphire ingots (see picture above). The engineers and scientists then create cylindrical tubes within the ingot. These “tube” cut-outs are then meticulously cut, shaped, and polished into the required components of the watch. This is, of course, the simplest way of explaining the process. The difficulties lie in that, firstly, if there are impurities in the ingot itself (wrong temperatures in the crystallisation process), the whole process must be repeated to create a new sapphire ingot.

Iamge Reference: Caldera Gem

The next difficulty lies in machining the sapphire material to the required shape. Due to its hardness, sapphire is incredibly difficult to cut and shape. Sapphire can only be cut by one material, which is diamond, the hardest known material on earth. Specialised tools such as diamond-tipped cutters are used to cut sapphire into the required shapes.

While most watchmakers face these obstacles when trying to make sapphire timepieces, Hublot’s breakthrough of creating coloured sapphire watches sets them apart as industry leaders in this space.

Hublot was the first brand to introduce coloured sapphire cases at a production scale. The brand states that “In 2017, the watchmaker pushed the limits even further: the master of the Art of Fusion accomplished the feat of creating large coloured sapphires, despite the complexity, unpredictability, instability and lack of homogeneity in the fusion and crystallisation of sapphire. This innovation and mastery are backed both by significant investments, which have facilitated the industrialisation of sapphire, and by the work of the internal R&D team, which is continuously exploring how to create new colours of sapphire.”

To create the different coloured cases, different metallic oxides must be added during the crystallisation process to produce vibrant colours. For example, to make red sapphire (ruby), you must add chromium into the mix; to get blue sapphire, cobalt is needed; and to get yellow sapphire, copper is required. When the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire was released, it was the first time in the history of watchmaking that sapphire had been coloured yellow.

The challenge of creating coloured sapphires as Hublot explained above, lies in precisely controlling the type and amount of (chromium, cobalt, copper etc) that’s added to the mix during the crystallisation process. Even an extremely minor deviation can lead to an uneven coloration or impurities in the sapphire. The uneven colouration means that no two sapphire timepieces of the same colour will be the same, which is a major drawback.

Once the additives are added, they must then be uniformly distributed throughout the molten aluminium oxide. However, the high viscosity of the molten sapphire makes this process incredibly difficult. If there is even a tiny amount of uneven distribution, it will result in different colour gradients, streaks or blotches, which makes those sapphires used in Hublot timepieces not possible. To put it into a different perspective, creating small pieces of sapphire for, say, jewellery is by far much easier than what Hublot is achieving. This is because the larger the sapphire, the harder it is to achieve a consistent colour hue, as slight imperfections are shown much more prominent over a greater surface area.

While certain colours can be easier to work with when creating coloured sapphire timepieces, red sapphire (ruby) is thought as one of the hardest of the standard colours to create. This is because, as stated previously, to create a red sapphire, you must add chromium to the mix. Chromium interaction with aluminium oxide can lead to greater instability during the crystallisation process compared to other colours, which makes it incredibly difficult to make. Hublot, however, has mastered this process, which is how they were able to create timepieces like the Big Bang Unico Red Sapphire. This is a feat only very few brands in the world of horology can even come close to replicating.

To take things a step further, Hublot has not only mastered the “Art of Fusion” of creating sapphire watch cases, but they have also finessed the process of creating a full sapphire bracelet. There are only a handful of brands in the world today that have achieved what Hublot has created with full sapphire timepieces. If creating a coloured sapphire case was incredibly hard, I can’t begin to imagine what creating a complete sapphire timepiece would be like. Let alone on top of all of that, fitting in a fully skeletonised movement with a tourbillon complication. It’s no wonder a watch like the Big Bang Intergrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire retails for approximately $820,000 AUD.

Hublot’s Key Sapphire Models

HUblot’s groundbreaking Big Bang Unico Sapphire, released in 2016, was the first watch to feature a fully transparent sapphire case. This timepiece set the stage for Hublot to go wild with future creations, creating not only new colours but also timepieces with high-complication and ones that would breathe new life into the world of horology.

2016 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire

2016 – Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari

2017 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

2017 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Rainbow

2017 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Red & Blue Sapphire

2017 – Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire

2017 – Hublot MP-07 Sapphire 40 Days Power Reserve

2017 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Baguettes

2017 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt (Only Watch 2017)

2017 – Hublot Big Bang Unico All Black Sapphire Rainbow

2018 – Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Sapphire

2019 – Hublot MP-11 SAXEM Green Sapphire

2020 – Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire

2021 – Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

2021 – Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange Sapphire

2022 – Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire

2023 – Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Sapphire

2023 – Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire

2023 – Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Neon Yellow Saxem

2023 – Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire

2024 – Hublot Big Bang Unico Green SAXEM

2024 – Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire

2024 – Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire

The Future of Sapphire In Watchmaking

The future of sapphire in the world of horology is incredibly promising, especially considering that with more and more advancements in technology will mean that the potential of sapphire creations will be more refined. The complexity of creating sapphire watches along with the time and cost involved to do so gives the material limited use. We have seen that Hublot have been able to push well past these boundaries compared to other luxury brands. Even for Hublot, however, emerging innovations will pave the way for more efficient and sustainable methods in creating these incredible and unique timepieces.

Hublot’s research and development team have mastered the “Art of Fusion”. Their continuous development of coloured sapphire synthesis with colours like vibrant blue, red, yellow, purple, SAXOM green, water blue and even black is a testament to the brand’s commitment to expanding the potential of this spectacular material in the world of watchmaking. The future of the sapphire watchmaking of Hublot may include more intricate sapphire creations, including the brand’s MP collection, possibly even multicoloured gradients (bezel different sapphire colour?), and even combining sapphire with other cutting-edge materials!

What is undoubtedly clear is that Hublot is the leader in sapphire innovation. However, creating something new and different like this provokes resistance, as it challenges the comfort of tradition and the norms of an established industry. Hublot’s journey with Sapphire and many of their other “Art of Fusion” creations is a testament to this truth. The brand’s avant-garde designs have always been met with mixed reactions, as we can see through social media, and that’s okay. This willingness to keep pushing to innovate and embrace the uncharted drives progress. Through these bold, controversial moves, industries evolve, offering a glimpse of possibilities that redefine what is considered achievable.

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The Patek Philippe 5711 Nautilus Sells For A Record US$7.67 Million https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38208/the-patek-philippe-5711-nautilus-sells-for-a-record-us7-67-million/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38208/the-patek-philippe-5711-nautilus-sells-for-a-record-us7-67-million/#respond Sun, 01 Dec 2024 08:18:29 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=38208 The proceeds from the most expensive Patek Philippe Nautilus will go to Children Action, a Swiss charity that supports global initiatives for the health, education, and well-being of underprivileged children.

Patek Philippe continues to dominate the auction world, with the latest new record for the highest-selling Nautilus timepiece. Earlier this week at the 30th anniversary of the Children Action auction in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s 5711 Nautilus sold for a record amount of US$7.67 million. This wasn’t just a standard Nautilus either, as it was intricately decorated with Maori-style engraving.

Another factor that would’ve helped push the 5711 Nautilus to new record prices is that Patek Phillipe discontinued the model a few years back. The final “farewell” piece was the 5711 in Tiffany Blue dial with the Tiffany Blue stamp released in 2021. This means that three years after its retirement, it has made a comeback one last time to support a very worthy cause.

The Patek Philippe 5711 Nautilus Tiffany Blue Edition

To give a sense as to how well this Nautilus did during the auction, the previous record for a Nautilus being sold in auction was the Tiffany Blue 5711, which sold for US$6.2 million. As this was a farewell piece for the 5711 line, it garnered global attention, driving the final price to astronomical heights.

The Nautilus isn’t the only model from Patek Philippe that’s done incredibly well during auction either. Patek Philippe holds the record for the most expensive watch (and wristwatch) sold at auction. On November 9th, 2019, in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 sold for an astonishing US$31.19 million during a Christie’s auction.

Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater 6301A-010

This was then followed by 10th edition of Only Watch held this year, where Patek Philippe “chose to highlight its know-how in the field of striking watches by reinterpreting the Grande Sonnerie reference 6301, an exceptional watch launched in 2020, combining a Grande Sonnerie (the “grail” of acoustic functions), a Petite Sonnerie and a minute repeater.” Only Watch is a biennial charity auction of luxury watches where the brands present a unique “one-off” timepiece for auction. This is where they can experiment and create something truly unique, or in the case of Patek Philippe, truly showcase the brand’s expertise of ultra-fine craftsmanship advanced complications.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270T-010

While the Children Action auction doesn’t require brands to present unique watches, Patek Philippe still went the extra mile to make something special. The Children Action auction is an annual charity event organised by the Swiss foundation Children Action, which supports disadvantaged children worldwide. Patek Philippe has been supporting this auction since 2005, creating timepiece to help this great charity. During the Children Action auction in 2022. held in Geneva by Philipps, Bacs & Russo, Patek Philippe once again presented a unique timepiece that once again sold for a record price. The timepiece was the first ever titanium version of the perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 5270T-010, selling for a whopping 9.7 million Swiss francs.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 for Children Action auction.

For this year’s Children Action auction, Patek Philippe chose to resurrect the Nautilus in steel, reference 5711/1500A, accompanied by a pair of cuff links that have the same Maori-inspired engraving. Patek Philippe chose to keep this unique Nautilus timepiece in steel as the material has a special place in the collection. The original Nautilus was presented in stainless steel, which at the time of its unveiling went against most traditional watchmaking, where brands were releasing luxury sports timepieces in precious metals.

All proceeds from the sale of the most expensive Patek Philippe Nautilus will help fund support programs focused on health, education, and psychological well-being through Children Action, ensuring that the auction’s success translates into meaningful impact for children in need.

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Releases You May Have Missed – November https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38057/releases-you-may-have-missed-november/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/38057/releases-you-may-have-missed-november/#respond Sat, 30 Nov 2024 04:32:27 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=38057 Some of November’s most exciting watch releases, from headline-makers to the hidden gems!

Just one month out from the start of the holiday season, November was filled with exciting releases that are sure to get everyone in the mood for gift buying! Although brands tend to quiet down towards the end of the year, it is also an ideal time for releasing new timepieces to get people thinking about what to buy for their loved ones or even to treat themselves!

November also saw some exciting collaborations unfold, one of which was great for the Australian watch community. However, one of the more talked-about collaborations was the latest release from Audemars Piguet x Kaws. Released as part of the brand’s concept line, the watch featured the iconic ‘Companion’ 3D figure on the dial, captivating viewers as Audemars Piguet pushed its own boundaries with a few brand “firsts.”

In this article, we look at some of the releases that you may have missed, from under-the-radar launches to hidden gems. With so many launches this month, it’s impossible to cover everything in real-time, but we didn’t want these exceptional releases to go unnoticed!

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Ceramic

In June this year, Blancpain released their first full ceramic Fifty Fathoms Complete Calendar Moonphase collection, which featured stunning blue and green dials encased in a black ceramic case and bracelet. Now, their latest additions to the ceramic collection released this month are the simple three-hander and date timepeices along with a chronograph complication.

The three-hander timepieces are offered in two colour variations, the same as the ones we saw released in the middle of this year. The dials have a stunning sunburst effect, with the colour ranging from dark blue and green to very light green and blue shades. The bezel inserts match the dial colours nicely, giving an overall dark yet colourful aesthetic appearance.

Reference: 5000A 0140 01S (Blue dial), 5000 0153 01S (Green dial)
For more information: Blancpain.com

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback

The second variant that was released as part of Blancpain’s latest Fifty Fathoms full ceramic collection is the Bathyscape Chronographe Flyback. There are a few differences between the standard three-hander release and this variant, besides the complication, of course!

Firstly, this latest Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback is only offered with a blue sunburst dial, unlike the three-hander release, which included the green dial variant as well. Blancpain could be holding out on a green dial variant as a future release! The next change is the bezel, which, instead of the being colour-matched to the dial, is a polished black finish. The watch is also offered with extra straps; in either a NATO fabric strap or a leather strap, both in blue colour.

Reference: 5200 0140 01S
For more information: Blancpain.com

Breguet Blue Tradition Chronographe Independant 7077

The Breguet Blue Tradition Chronographe Independant 7077 was first introduced in 2015, and for this year, gets a new ‘Breguet Blue’ look. As we know, Breguet makes some impressive mechanical timepieces in which the heart of the movement is open for all to see. The Tradition Chronographe Independant 7077 is no different, as it boasts two independent gear trains; one of the time operating at 3Hz, and the other for the chronograph, operating at a higher frequency of 5Hz.

The Breguet Blue Tradition Chronographe Indepedant 7077 keeps the signature Breguet styling with the welded lugs, fluted case band, engine-turned dial and the iconic Breguet hands. The timepiece was a work of mechanical art when it was first introduced, and now it comes with a beautiful “Breguet Blue” dial and matching “Breguet Blue” alligator leather strap.

Reference: 7077BB/GY/9XV
For more information: Breguet.com

Breitling – Limited Edition Endurance Pro Ironman 2024 70.3 World Championship Taupo

Breitling’s Endurance Pro was designed to be a timepiece that can withstand heavy shocks. Made for extreme athletes that need a watch that will not only keep up with them, but also look aesthetically pleasing on the wrist! Breitling’s latest version of the Endurance Pro is a limited edition timepiece dedicated to the Ironman 2024 70.3 World Championship held on the 14th and 15th of December in Taupo, New Zealand.

The 44mm case of the watch is made from Breitlight, which is an ultralight, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic material. It is 3.3 times lighter than titanium and approximately 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel, making it the perfect wristwear for high-performance athletes. This Limited Edition Endurance Pro Ironman 2024 70.3 World Championship Taupo comes with a striking red dial and red rubber strap, along with the black case and white dial and bezel markings, which reference the Ironman competition colours.

Reference: X823107C1M1S1
For more information: Breitling.com.au

Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Hodinkee Limited Edition

The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition is the result of the collaboration between Hodinkee and the luxury watchmaker. The elegant timepiece comes with a guilloche pattern on the “centre circle” of the dial, while the hour “track” features a smooth “matte-like” finish. This beautiful green dial has been produced by Metalem, who is a famous dial maker known for producing stunning dials for Philippe Dufour and watchmakers alike.

Turn the 18k white gold case over, and you are treated to a fully polished caseback, with the centre being the “hunter” caseback. It is, again, a beautiful display of guilloche finishing that is indeed very aesthetically pleasing. With the push of a button, the caseback can also be opened to reveal the L.U.C 96.01-L in-house movement, along with its various decorated finishes.

Reference: 161242-1003 – limited to 25 pieces

Christopher Ward 37mm C1 Moonphase

Christopher Ward’s C1 Moonphase is a one of the seven watches from the brand to be nominated for the prestigious GPHG awards (akin to the Oscars). Christopher Ward si known for creating timepieces that are great value for money, and the C1 Moonphase perfectly fits the bill. The C1 Moonphase was first launched with a 41mm case size, which for this year, the brand has downsized to a much more wearable 37mm case size.

The main talking point about this timepiece is, of course, the dial. Kept bare minimum to show the beauty of the aventurine dial, the watch only comes with simple three-hander and a moon-phase complication at 12 o’clock. The timepiece has been designed to reflect the starry night sky, with the moon making its way through the dial based on the lunar cycle. The aventurine dial is perfect for this depiction, as the material comes with the “starry night sky” aesthetic already.

Reference: C01-37AMP2-S00B0-MB
For more information: Christopherward.com

Girard Perregaux – Laureato 38mm Sage Green & Midnight Blue

Girard-Perregaux’s latest release for 2024 is updating their iconic Laureato collection. This time, focusing on the simple time and date 38mm models in the Laureato collection, Girard-Perregaux has given two new dial colours for the timepieces. The colours being presented are sage green and midnight blue, nicely complementing the tonneau-shaped slim stainless steel case.

The models retain the signature styling of the Laureato, which includes the Clous de Paris pattern on the dial, the baton-style hour indices and hands and, of course the iconic octagonal shape bezel on the circular plinth case. While both colour choices are great, the blue stands out better due to the contrasting of the white SuperLumi-Nova on the hands and indices against the dial.

Reference: 81005-11-3407-1CM (Sage Green), 81005-11-3460-1CM (Midnight Blue)
For more information: Girard-Perragaux.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph in Pink Gold

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph in Pink Gold builds on the success of the steel and pink gold versions of this timepiece released during Watches and Wonders 2023 by introducing a limited edition model, again in pink gold! This time, however, Jaeger-LeCoultre has done the case, dial, and movement bridges all in pink gold, giving the timepiece a completely new look from its predecessors.

The double sided display of the 49.4mm x 29.9mm x 11.4mm thick case houses a time display only on one side of the dial, while the other side exposes the stunning Calibre 860 movement. The movement display also features a time-dial, which means you can enjoy the skeletonised view with the watch still being functional!

Reference:  Q389256J
For more information: Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 Midnight Blue Dial

Another Jaeger-LeCoultre release this month is the Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362, this time coming in a new aesthetic that highlights the contrast between the beautiful midnight blue of the dial and the polished white gold casing. This is one of the more complicated timepieces in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s lineup, as the watch features eight patents, which includes six inventions that have been developed specifically for this timepiece.

This latest version of the Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 Midnight Blue Dial features a aesthetic blue sunburst dial that differents from royal blue to midnight blue tones. White gold was chosen as the case material due to the metal’s superior acoustic qualities, which play an immense part when it comes to the sound of the minute repeater that lies within this timepiece.

Reference:  Q1313581
For more information: Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Longines Mini Dolce Vita Gold

Longines has updated their Mini Dolce Vita Gold collection to now offer timepieces made from 18-carat yellow gold and rose gold materials. This precious metal upgrade brings forth more elegance and class to the existing collection which currently features stainless steel timepieces.

The Longines Mini Dolce Vita Gold collection was first introduced in 2023. The collection takes references from the brand’s own design back in 1927 when they released a tank-shaped timepiece. This latest update to the collection also adds diamonds on the case to various models, further enhancing that luxury appeal and aesthetic.

Reference: L5.200.7.71.6 (Yellow gold), L5.200.9.71.6 (Rose gold)
For more information: Longines.com.au

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 34

This month, Nomos released the smallest size of their Club Sport Neomatik collection, while also introducing three colours to the lineup. Previously, the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik was available in three different sizes: 42mm, 39mm and 37mm. These size variations would cater to quite a large audience, however, the brand opted to go even smaller with this latest release, making these new collection “unisex”.

Nomos is offering the new collection in 34mm size, making it perfect for ladies and for the gentlemen that prefer to wear the watches smaller on the wrist. The colours being added to the lineup are rose gold, gold and purple. As per the design of the Club Sport Neomatik, all three variations feature mix of Arabic and baton-style hour indices with a constant seconds counter at 6 o’clock.

Reference: 756 (Rose), 755 (Gold), 757 (Purple)
For more information: Nomos-glashuette.com

Omega – Seamaster 300M ‘Daniel Craig’ And Silver-Dialed Companion

After appearing on the wrist of James Bond’s (Daniel Craig) wrist at the Paris Olympics 2024, the much-awaited stainless steel no-date Seamaster 300M finally arrived this month. Omega is releasing this timepiece in two dial colours: a black dial variant and a silver dial option. The black dial timepiece comes with a large aluminium bezel with the signature Seamaster 300M design, while the silver dial comes with a laser-ablated titanium bezel insert.

The black dial features the iconic wave pattern on the dial, while the silver option is actually a brushed PVD-treated stainless steel dial. Both models are offered in a stainless steel mesh bracelet as standard; however, there is also an additional black double-ridged rubber strap.

Reference: 210.30.42.20.01.010 (Black Dial), 210.30.42.20.06.002 (Silver Dial)
For more information: Omegawatches.com.au

Zenith x Collective Defy Skyline C.X Edition

Zenith’s Defy Skyline takes centre stage as the latest collaborative project between the luxury Swiss watchmaker and Collective Horology. Collective Horology, in a nutshell, is an online retailer for independent watches, with its presence being well known for its collaborative efforts with various Swiss watchmakers. The latest collaboration with Zenith saw the release of a matte silver-grey dial that features Zenith’s signature star-patterned dial.

The stars on the dial have been done in a way so that the ones closer to the centre of the dial have a deeper engraving, and as you progress towards the outer part of the dial the engraving becomes less. This gives a beautiful gradient effect, which, even on the matte silver-grey dial, is still somewhat noticeable! The watch is offered with two strap choices, either a steel bracelet of the stand-out orange rubber strap.

Reference: 06.9300.3620/06.I001
For more information: Zenith-watches.com

In-Depth Articles for November Releases

Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’

Related Reading: INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Limited Edition

Related Reading: Space Out With The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso

Hublot – Big Bang Unico x Novak Djokovic

Related Reading: INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico x Novak Djokovic (Live Pics)

TAG Heuer – Monaco Chronograph Skeleton Pink

Related Reading: REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton Pink!

TAG Heuer – Time + Tide Aquaracer Solargraph ‘Sundowner’

Related Reading: TAG Heuer Drops New Solargraph “Sundowner” Australian Limited Edition

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INTRODUCING: De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37860/introducing-de-bethune-db28xp-steel-wheels-tourbillon/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37860/introducing-de-bethune-db28xp-steel-wheels-tourbillon/#respond Sat, 23 Nov 2024 09:49:41 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=37860 The all-new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon: Mastering time in majestic blue!

De Bethune’s latest DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is the brand’s latest evolution of the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels collection. The DB28 is an extraordinary example of avant-garde watchmaking, bringing together cutting-edge technology along with traditional craftsmanship to create timepieces with that “stand out” appeal.

The all-new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

When the DB28 Steel Wheels collection was first launched in 2018, it grabbed attention for it’s futuristic design, which was characterised by the sleek titanium case and the distinctive look of having skeletonised lugs alongside the skeletonised movement. The theme of the timepiece was to strip everything down to the bare minimum, while still make it a stunning piece of art to look at!

In 2020, De Bethune took the DB28 Steel Wheels collection a step further by adding in one of the most desired complications: the tourbillon. This model, when you look at it more closely is a very similar timepiece to the latest tourbillon edition that’s been released. The difference between the two being that the 2020 model features blue sapphire delta-shaped bridges, whilst the twin power barrels are shown underneath sapphire crystals. The clear theme of the 2020 edition was to incorporate sapphire into the watch.

The 2024 edition of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon features the same colour palette as the 2020 edition, but it does not have the sapphire plates. What we get is a timepiece with a much more vivid dial, one that catches the eye immediately. The model retains the grade 5 titanium 43mm case that the previous versions came with, including the signature skeletonised design. The “floating” lugs are hollowed out, which is the main detail of the case that draws your attention to.

The dial of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is eye-catching, with the different geometric shapes formed as part of the skeletonised dial, along with the new vivid blue colour!

While De Bethune retains the iconic dial of the Steel Wheels (with the addition of the tourbillon), there have been a few subtle changes. The more prominent change is the design and layout of the hour indices. While the previous DB28 Steel Wheels Tourbillong featured a minute track alongside the spherical hour markers. For this latest edition, De Bethune have gone for a more simplistic approach, by using a dial layout similar to the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon, released earlier this year. The design now only features small spherical hour indices.

De Bethune states that the colour used on the dial is a “microlight pattern”. I find that the shade of blue used for the dial is similar to royal blue, and I have to say it is beautiful on the dial. As mentioned previously, unlike the sapphire blue of the 2020 edition, this model just grabs your attention and keeps it there! The colour scheme is also well thought out in that it breaks up the blue with the titanium of the skeletonised movement. We get the microlight blue pattern on the “hour track”, the delta-shaped bridges of the dial, the bridges of the twin power barrels, and also on the tourbillon. This is juxtaposed by the titanium used for the hands, gear wheels for power barrels and the titanium cage for the tourbillon.

The blued balance wheel of the tourbillon is a patented component by De Bethune

At the 6 o’clock position on the dial is De Bethune’s ultra-light tourbillon. This mechanism weighs just 0.18 grams and operates at a very high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 VpH). The tourbillon performs a complete rotation once every 30 seconds. As stated earlier, the blue balance wheel of the tourbillon is a patented component by De Bethune, and it comes with white gold weights.

The tourbillon is part of De Bethune’s hand-wound calibre DB2009V6 movement. The movement comes fitted with many of De Bethune’s patented designs, along with the twin-barrels that give an impressive 5-day power reserve. On the case back of this timepiece, De Bethune has included a power-reserve indicator to let the wearer know when the watch needs to be wound again.

Final Thoughts

This latest version of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is easily one of my favourite models from the brand’s collections. I’m a sucker for this vivid royal blue colour, so when it is combined with a beautifully aesthetic dial and tourbillon complication, it just ticks all the right boxes. Unfortunately, the watch is only limited to 10 pieces!

What I also like about this watch is that it has so many different points that look appealing to the eye. Firstly the skeletonised case (lugs) which gives it the minimalistic look, to then the skeletonised dial. I do like the fact that De Bethune has removed the minute track and just kept it simply as the sperical titanium hour indices. This way the dial feels less “cluttered”, while also letting the beautiful shade of blue stand out more.

The watch is also offered on an extra-supple alligator leather or a blue fabric strap. While the choice will depend on the occasion, if we are talking purely of looks, the blue fabric strap is hands down the best choice for me. I feel that the darker tones of the leather strap just don’t do the overall look of the watch justice. In contrast, the blue of the fabric strap closely matches the royal blue of the dial components, giving it an overall aesthetically pleasing look!

Model: De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Reference: DB28XPSWT

Specification:

  • Case: 43mm x 9.1mm thickness
  • Case Material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle. Also features polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs (De Bethune patent 2006).
  • Dial: Skeletonised dial with a mix of titanium and blue microlight components. Tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
  • Crystal: Sapphire (1800 vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective treatment
  • Movement: Mehanical hand-wound DB2009V6 Calibre
  • Case-Back: Screwed case back in polished titanium and open on a linear power reserve indicator
  • Power reserve: 5 days (120 hours)
  • Straps: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining or blue fabric strap.

International Recommended Retail Price: USD $210,000

Availability: Limited to 10 timepieces. Available through De Bethune boutiques. For more information, please head to debethune.com.ch

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INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37824/introducing-audemars-piguet-x-kaws-royal-oak-concept-tourbillon-companion/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37824/introducing-audemars-piguet-x-kaws-royal-oak-concept-tourbillon-companion/#respond Fri, 22 Nov 2024 03:42:18 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=37824 Audemars Piguet x KAWS: Where Haute Horology Meets Playful Artistry with the Royal Oak Concept ‘Companion’

Audemars Piguet has a history of blending haute horology with artistic collaborations. The brand is certainly no stranger to stepping outside the norm to create daring timepieces. The Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’ is the latest in a range of “Concept” watches that the brand has created, which expresses their creativity, reflecting the brand’s forward-thinking philosophy and dedication to push past the creative boundaries.

The all-new Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’

To some, this latest collaboration may seem too far-fetched and outside the norm of what Audemars Piguet is well known for. But isn’t that exactly what concept designs are for? Audemars Piguet’s Concept collection was created to showcase the brand’s avant-garde side, which features innovative designs, groundbreaking materials and complex horological complications, all the while still retaining the DNA of the Royal Oak. The Concept collection was first introduced in 2002 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, and since then, Audemars Piguet have created a host of concept watches that do exactly what it was intended to do: push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

The Concept collection also allows the brand to try-new things. As we will see with this latest Kaws collaboration, when the brand is allowed to experiment, it pushes them forward and brings new innovations to the watch industry as a whole. This is similar to the car industry, where they will release concept models that will feature innovative and “futuristic” features, which, if successful, can be used on the brand’s existing collections.

Audemars Piguet X Marvel – Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” Tourbillon shows the 3D silhouette of the super-hero, almost as if it’s leaping out of the dial!

The more recent collaborations for the Concept collection were the Marvel editions; Royal Oak Concept “Black Panter” Flying Tourbillon released in 2021, and the Royal Oak Concept “Spider Man” Tourbillon released in 2023. Both models featured a 3D white gold silhouette which depicted the two characters as the main focus on the dial. This was not only a first for Audemars Piguet, but also luxury watch brands in the world of horology as well.

This latest Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’ follows the same path as the Marvel editions in that it features a large 3D model of the iconic Kaws character on the centre of the dial. While the dial has been re-imagined for this latest Concept project, the case takes familiar shape to previous Audemars Piguet Concept designs, with the iconic Royal Oak bezel still retained.

The case comes with different finishing techniques which gives the watch more character,

The 43mm case is fully crafted from titanium and measures 17.4mm in thickness, making this a large piece on the wrist. For a concept watch, the case certainly looks the part with its futuristic looking design. The case also features multiple different finished surfaces, from the matte-like finish on the bezel surface, and the polished finish on the angular parts of the case, to the black ceramic crown.

The flat head screws of the iconic Royal Oak have been replaced with “X” screws, a signature of the ‘Companion’ character

What is also notably different and is a first for Audemars Piguet is the change of screw “design” for the bezel. On the Black Panther and Spider-Man Concept editions, for example, the screws on the bezel kept the signature Royal Oak design intact. However, for this latest Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’, the brand has replaced the standard flat screw-head and instead used Kaws signature “X” symbol.

The open-worked dial features a ‘Companion’ figure, which shows only the head, hands and chest on the watch. Even though the dial and watch have a monochromatic look, the tourbillon, with its pink upper bearing, immediately catches the wearer’s attention. This tourbillon is also placed on the centre of the chest of the ‘Companion’ figure.

The design of the 3D ‘Companion’ figure makes it appear as though it’s pressing against the crystal glass of the timepiece and looking outward at the wearer. This miniature 3D character is entirely made from titanium and is mounted on a titanium dial plate which has been decorated with a sunburst motif. The ‘Companion’ character features alternating satin-brushed and sandblasted finishing, which gives it texture and depth.


As part of this collaboration, we have pushed our limits in terms of watchmaking technology to create a spectacular setting with the character at the centre, surrounded by a brand-new hour and minute display system housed in the periphery of the movement.
Lucas Raggi – Research and Development Director at Audemars Piguet


Audemars Piguet has introduced another “first” for the brand on the dial. As you can see, there are no hour and minute hands. Instead, Audemars Piguet has pushed “time to the side” by implementing a peripheral time display, which, as the brand states, “offers new aesthetic possibilities for both movement and dial designs”. The hour and minute hands rotate around the periphery of the movement and dial, thanks to two visible, superimposed gear wheels driven by pinions and guided by rollers.

The movement inside the Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’ is the new hand-wound calibre 2979. The movement as gives allows the tourbillon to be placed at 6 o’clock, perfectly fitting in with the 3D ‘Companion’ figure on the dial. The movement operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 VpH), which is quite standard for hand-wound calibres, while giving out a power reserve of 72 hours.

Final Thoughts

This latest collaboration with the iconic artist KAWS showcases Audemars Piguet’s desire to push the boundaries of watchmaking and haute horology while also strengthening its ties with the cultural world. It is stated that KAW’s early “ad intervention” work paved the way for his cast of characters, including this iconic ‘Companion’ character. The characters served KAWS as experimental platforms to push the boundaries of what is possible to create in terms of shape, material and size.

And that is precisely what Audemars Piguet’s groundbreaking Concept collection represents for the watchmaker. The core essence of the Concept collection is to experiment, try new things, and push not only Audemars Piguet’s boundaries but also horology as a whole. We can see with this latest Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’ that the brand has made great strides in improving its own design while also bringing in a brand new movement with a peripheral time display, something that hasn’t been done at Audemars Piguet before. Whether you are a fan or not, the brand’s Concept collection is here to stay, and rightly so, as not only does it keep the company constantly evolving, but it also brings about cool creations like the Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’!

Model: Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’

Reference: 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01

Specification:

  • Case: 43mm x 17.4mm thickness
  • Case Material: Titanium
  • Dial: Openworked dial with microblasted and satin-finished “Companion” figure. Peripheral titanium hands with luminescent coating.
  • Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
  • Movement: In-house hand-wound Calibre 2979 movement, which features tourbillon and peripheral hours and minutes.
  • Case-Back: Open case back showing hand-wound movement
  • Water resistance: 100 metres / 10ATM
  • Power reserve: 72 hours
  • Straps: Light grey textured calfskin strap with titanium AP folding clasp and interchangeable strap system. Additional dark gray calfskin strap.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Price on Request.

Availability: Limited to 250 timepieces. Available through Audemars Piguet Boutiques or enquire online at audemarspiguet.com

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Celebrity Watch Spotting: Jake Paul’s Blinged Out Collection! https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37670/celebrity-watch-spotting-jake-pauls-blinged-out-collection/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37670/celebrity-watch-spotting-jake-pauls-blinged-out-collection/#respond Wed, 20 Nov 2024 06:50:53 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=37670 From the Ring to the Wrist: Jake Paul’s Extravagant Luxury Watch Game.

In the modern world of entertainment, Jake Paul is a name that is impossible to ignore. He is a controversial influencer and entrepreneur who rose to fame through the internet trend of “vines” followed by Youtube. Jake Paul has amassed a huge following on social media for his outlandish content and for the lifestyle he displays.  

Jake Paul is more than just a social media and Youtube celebrity. He is also known for his business ventures and boxing, while also being in the spotlight for controversies and media attention. Over the years the Youtube star has expanded his career into starting his own clothing brand, while also stepping into the boxing ring. As controversial as his high-profile boxing fights may be, he has set out and achieved what he intended to do, gain internet fame, media attention and ultimately make a substantial amount of money from these ventures.  

To put this into perspective, his latest boxing fight has been the talk of the town, with the YouTube star going up against retired professional boxer Mike Tyson. This was the first time that the subscription streaming service giant Netflix broadcasted the event live, showing just how popular and “in-demand” this fight was. Regardless of how the fight went, it’s safe to say that both boxers were the centre of attention the past few weeks to months, with Jake Paul advertising it constantly through his social media as well. This attention would have garnered more sponsors, deals and viewers for the fight, and in the end, more income for both! 

With Jake Paul striving for status and spectacle, his watch collection is no different. It is as bold and attention-grabbing as his career. He is well known for showing high-end, blinged-out timepieces (the Jacob and Co. Timepiece he wore to the Mike Tyson fight, for example). Jake Paul wears his watches to make a flashy statement.  

Jake Paul’s watch collection varies from diamond encrusted watches such as iced-out Rolexes, Audemars Piguet to Jacob and Co., to incredibly intricate and eye-catching timepieces such as the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon to the Richard Mille Abu Dhabi Special Edition.  

Jake Paul’s watch collection varies from diamond encrusted watches such as iced-out Rolexes, Audemars Piguet to Jacob and Co., to incredibly intricate and eye-catching timepieces such as the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon to the Richard Mille Abu Dhabi Special Edition.  

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Reference 26320ST Ice Out Edition

This is a special version of Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak Chronograph, which has been customised to now be fully diamond encrusted. The case, bracelet, bezel and dial all feature diamonds, with the tri-counter’s for the chronograph remaining intact to still give the presence of the Royal Oak Chronograph sitting underneath all the shimmering glamour.  

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Vampire” Edition

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Vampire” Edition is an attention-grabbing limited edition timepiece released as part of the brand’s Offshore collection. The watch gets its “Vampire” edition name due to its striking black and red colour scheme, which references the look a Vampire. The stainless steel case comes with a black ceramic bezel and a red rubber strap. The dial continues this black and red colour scheme with the black background contrasting against the red being used for the sub-counter hands as well as chronograph hands, along with the tachymeter scale.  

Richard Mille – RM-011 Abu Dhabi Special Edition

This Richard Mille is exceptionally rare. The RM-011 FM sapphire Flyback Chronograph “Abu Dhabi Special Edition” was limited to only 5 timepieces. Jake Paul is fortunate to be one of the few to make the list. The watch features a sapphire crystal case with a skeletonised flyback chronograph dial. The hour indices are transparent, which plays in nicely with the sapphire crystal case. The blue colour seen throughout the timepiece is “Abu Dhabi Blue”, a colour that is also known as the speed colour.  

Cartier Two Tone Santos de Cartier Skeleton Diamonds

It’s not every day we see a Cartier as blinged out as this, even if it is celebrity watch spotting. The Cartier Two-Tone Santos de Cartier Skeleton Diamonds is iced out to the max, with the entire watch being covered in aftermarket diamonds. The base of the timepiece is two-tone, which is 18k yellow gold for the bezel and screws, while the case and bracelet is stainless steel. The only part of this watch that doesn’t feature diamonds is the blue-steeled hands!  

Richard Mille – RM72-01 Automatic Winding Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph

The Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle Automatic Chronograph adopts the design codes of modern-day Richard Mille’s whilst synthesizing the know-how accumulated by the brand over the past 20 years. The watch comes with the brand’s first in-house flyback chronograph, which features a patented design that is a coupling system that consists of two oscillating pinions that are mounted on rockers, which control the start, stop, flyback and reset functions.  

Richard Mille – RM11-03 ‘Ivory’

Richard Mile’s RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ is an incredibly rare timepiece that features a 45mm case in white ceramic and titanium. The dial is skeletonised and features gold elements that make it stand out nicely. The RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ can only be purchased by brand VIP clients. It is also one of the most sought-after watches from Richard Mille, which could also be why it’s Jake Paul’s favourite timepiece, having been spotted on his wrist more times than any other watch in his collection.  

Jacob and Co. 18k White Gold Billionaire Ashoka Tourbillon

Jacob and Co.’s latest Billionaire Ashoka Tourbillon is born out of the love Jacob Arabo (founder) has for diamonds. The Billionaire Ashoka timepiece takes everything to the next level, with a skeletonised dial and tourbillon complicaiton, the watch is entirely set with very large diamonds. The diamonds are also a special level of exclusivity, being Ashoka-cut diamonds. This cut was invented by William Goldberg and is derived from a classic emerald cut. A task of precision, the Ashoka cut gives the stone a larger appearance overall.  

Jacob and Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

Back in 2019, Bugatti Automobiles and Jacob and Co. entered into a partnership that would see the creation of unrivalled hypercar-inspired timepieces. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is a masterpiece of artistic timepiece creations where it evokes the daring design and spirit of the Bugatti Chiron. The exterior shape of the Chiron inspires the case of the timepiece, while the movement references the Bugatti’s W16 engine block. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300 Turquoise Dial

Released in 2020 amongst a variety of new Oyster Perpetual models with different dial colours was the stunning Turquoise dial Oyster Perpetual 124300. Nicknamed the “Tiffany Blue” dial due to the colour hue being the same as the iconic Tiffany colour, this Oyster Perpetual was incredibly popular, with many enthusiasts and collectors alike trying to get their hands on one. This is certainly one model in Jake Paul’s collection that is a bit more “down to Earth”.  

Rolex GMT Master II 18 Ct Everose Gold

Released in 2018, Rolex’s GMT Master II in 18 Ct Everose Gold is a stunning model that’s worth over $60,000 AUD. To complement the case and bracelet, Everose gold material, the bezel features black and brown shades of ceramic. These two colours, as we know from Rolex GMT models, are used to indicate the “day” and “night” time. The material 18ct Everose gold was introduced by Rolex in 2005, which the brand has a patent for.

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INTRODUCING: Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique Phase de Lune 7787 In Platinum   https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37601/introducing-breguet-classique-5177-classique-phase-de-lune-7787-in-platinum/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37601/introducing-breguet-classique-5177-classique-phase-de-lune-7787-in-platinum/#respond Sun, 17 Nov 2024 08:55:53 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=37601 Breguet offers a timeless aesthetic for their most classic collection with the release of the new Classique 5177 and 7787 models.

Breguet has added two new additions to their Classique collection with the release of the latest Classique 5177 & Classique 7787 timepieces. These models stay true to the timeless spirit of the collection while giving it more elegance with the combination of two noble materials; platinum and “Grand Feu” enamel.  

Breguet’s Classique collection is one of the brand’s most iconic lines, known for it’s elegance, craftmanship and tribute to their heritage. As the collection’s name suggests, the models in the Classique line brings forth classical watchmaking ideologies. The Classique models feature traditional watchmaking complications and have simplistic styling that conveys elegance and luxury.  

The all-new Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique Phase de Lune 7787 timepieces

Abraham-Louis Breguet, considered as the first watch designer, developed a new aesthetic approach to timepiece design alongside his technical innovations that earned him a high reputation among prestigious international clientele. At a time when his peers created timepieces where the dials were filled with decoration, A.-L. Breguet chose to go on the minimalistic approach and free time from all embellishment. His main concern for his designs was that legibility of the indicators.  


Even if the mechanisms under the dial are complex, telling the time must be as quick as it is intuitive.
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s approach to watchmaking design. 


Abraham-Louis Breguet’s approach to simplify watchmaking design in the 18th century saw him reinventing the watch face, which was sometimes enamelled in white, softened by the now iconic design of the Breguet Arabic hour indices and the open-loop design of the Breguet hands.  

Breguet’s signature design details such as the Breguet hands, and Breguet hour indices are more prominent against the black dial.

These design cues are what has transpired onto the dials of the Classique collection. The two models being updated are the Classique 5177, which is a classic dress watch with a simple yet elegant design. The second is the Classique 7787 model which takes the classic styling of the 5177 and adds complications. Some of the complications that have featured in the Classique 7787 model include the perpetual calendar, moon phase, power reserve indicators and date and day of the week indicators.  

The new Breguet Phases de Lune 7787 looks stunning with platinum 950 case and black dial.

The Classique 5177 and 7787 models are existing timepieces in the Breguet collection. Breguet offers the Classique 5177 in the following references: white gold case & white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 5177BB/29/9V6), rose gold case & white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 5177BB/29/9V6), white gold case & blue “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 5177BB/2Y/9V6), rose gold case & silvered guilloche dial (reference 5177Br/15/9V6) and lastly a white gold case & guilloche silvered dial (reference 5177BB/15/9V6). 

In contrast, Breguet offers only two existing variations of the Classique 7787 timepiece: a white gold case with “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 7787BB/29/9V6) and a rose gold case with “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 7787BR/29/9V6).  

Classique 5177 in Platinum  

The latest edition to the 5177 collection is the 950 platinum 38mm case model with a black “Grand Feu” enamel dial. As mentioned previously, the Classique 5177 is the closest expression to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s stylistic philosophy. This model with it’s deep black dial helps to accentuate the elements of the dial that symbolises Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work such as the Arabic hour markers done in silvered powdered timer and the signature “moon”-tipped Breguet hands being rhodium plated. This material choice not only allows it to match the colour of the case, but to also contrast beautifully against the black dial and enhance the readability of the dial. At the 3 o’clock position is also a date window, a signature design of the Classique 5177 model, which is done tone-in-tone to match the dial.  

A subtle feature on both the Classique 5177 and 7787 models is the “hidden” Breguet signature. Breguet states that “following the habits and customs of 18th century watchmakers to guarantee the authenticity of a timepiece, these “Grand Feu” enamel dials reveal Breguet’s secret signature to the right of the center for the 7787 and between the center and 6 o’clock for the 5177″.

Open case back of the Breguet Classique 5177 showing the brand’s exemplary finishing.

The movement sitting inside this latest Classique 5177 is the Breguet Calibre 777 Q. The movement, a self-winding calibre, operates at a high-frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz), while giving out a power reserve of 55 hours. The movement features 237 components and incorporates a flat balance-spring made from silicon, which makes it more resistant to wear, corrosion and magnetism. The open case back of the Classique 5177 gives view to the calibre 777 Q movement, in which we are treated to a rhodium-plated 18-carat gold oscillating weight decorated with a hand-engraved “starry mosaic” motif, along with an exclusive design that echoes the words “Breguet Special Edition”.  

Classique Phase de Lune 7787 In Platinum 

Compared to the Classique 5177 timepiece, the Classique Phase de Lune 7787 offers a more comprehensive display that showcases a cut out window to display the phases of Earth’s natural satellite. This moon phase display comes with a backdrop that shows the starry night sky, along with a moon that has as Breguet describes a “comforting smile or friendly profile”. The moon phase also comes with a graduate scale over 29.5 days. [Text Wrapping Break][Text Wrapping Break]On the bottom right of the dial is the power-reserve indicator, displayed in large yet simplistic manner. The scale reads upto 38 hours which is the maximum output of the movement.

Unlike the existing models of the Classique 7787 model, the moon phase for this version doesn’t have gold details, but rather rhodium-plated. The hands and Arabic hour indices aren’t blued either, but also rhodium plated. Having blued hands on this model wouldn’t have been the right choice as they would be overshadowed by the beautiful black “Grand-Feu” enamel dial. Like the latet Classique 5177, having rhodium-plated elements against the black dial allows it to stand out much more and paint a elegant picture.  

Open case back showing the calibre 591 DRL movement inside the Classique Phase de Lune 7787.

The movement used for this latest Classique 7787 is Breguet’s calibre 591 DRL, which, featuring 221 components is able to produce 38 hours of power reserve while functioning at a high-frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz). Again, like the Classique 5177 calibre 777 Q movement, the calibre 591 DRL uses a flat balance-spring made from silicon. The winding rotor on the back is a rhodium-plated 22-carat gold rotor with a hand-made “barley grain” guilloche finish.  

The Breguet 591 DRL movement

Breguet also states in regards to the calibre 591 DRL movement that “the addition of a pinion on the moon-phase disc enables it to offer a realistic display of the cycle, I.e 29.5303498 days instead of the 29.5 days that is generally offered by this type of complication. It is therefore close to the 29.53058888 days of the actual lunar revolution. The difference is therefore limited to just one day after 348.7 years”. 

Final Thoughts: 

This is the first time that the modern versions of the Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 timepieces get a black coloured dial, along with a platinum 950 case material. This classic design with the choice of black embraces simplicity and elagance, two design cues that Abraham-Louis Breguet aimed for when creating his own beautiful dials.  

The signature Breguet design details such as the “moon” tipped hands and Arabic hour markers against the black dial also evokes a sense of classic sophistication. While the Classique 5177 has the minimal three-hander dress watch design, the Classique 7787 takes the same design and adds sophisticated complications, while still retaining the elegance.  

Reference: 5177PT/2N/9V6.01

Specifications:

  • Case Dimensions: 38mm x 8.8mm thickness
  • Case Material: Platinum 950
  • Dial: Black “Grand Feu” enamel. Hour markers with Arabic numerals and silvered powdered timer with rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands. Date window, silvered on black background.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
  • Water resistance: 30 meters (3 Bar)
  • Movement: Calibre 777 Q
  • Power reserve: 55 hours
  • Strap: Black alligator leather, satin look. Platinum pin buckle

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Price On Request.

Availability: Non-limited. Available through Breguet boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Breguet.com

Reference: 7787PT/2N/9VU

Specifications:

  • Case Dimensions: 39mm x 10.3mm thickness
  • Case Material: Platinum 950
  • Dial: Black “Grand Feu” enamel. Hour markers with Arabic numerals and silvered powdered timer. Rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands. Rhodium-plated baton-type power reserve indicator hand. Moon phases window, blue lacquer disc, hammered gold moon, polished rhodium-plated gold stars, cycle scale.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
  • Water resistance: 30 meters (3 Bar)
  • Movement: Calibre 591 DRL
  • Power reserve: 38 hours
  • Strap: Black alligator leather, satin look. Platinum triple-blade folding clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Price On Request.

Availability: Non-limited. Available through Breguet boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Breguet.com

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10 Dive Watches Under $10,000 AUD You Can Buy In 2024 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37366/10-dive-watches-under-10000-aud/ https://www.watchadvice.com.au/37366/10-dive-watches-under-10000-aud/#respond Wed, 13 Nov 2024 11:44:01 +0000 https://www.watchadvice.com.au/?p=37366 Ready to dive into the world of luxury timepieces? Our guide to dive watches under $10,000 will help you find the perfect blend of style, durability, and underwater performance!

Dive watches in the world of horology is a niche that is known not only for the rugged yet stylish look of the timepieces but also for the capabilities making them great every day wear watches. Dive watches were originally designed for underwater exploration, with the timepieces being specifically built to withstand extreme conditions, such a high pressure at lower water depths, all the while being reliable and able to keep precise time.

Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV dive watch paired nicely with a suit!

Certain criteria sets a dive watch apart from other watch categories. A true diver’s watch will meet the ISO 6425 certification, which requires water resistance to at least 100 meters, a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time, and easy readability of the dial during low-light conditions (lots of lume!).. There is also additional criteria which is that the watch must also be shock-resistant and magnetic resistance. Many brands, like the watches on this list, go above this criteria, especially when it comes to water resistance, as they offer 200 meters and above quite easily. Some watches also come with additional features, such as GMT functions, making them even more versatile as they can also act as a traveller’s watch!

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional being used while surfing

With the advancements of modern watchmaking, the latest materials and technology have been utilised in making the latest dive watches, which make them highly versatile watches. Watches that you can wear while deep-sea diving and then wearing to boardroom meetings are one of the biggest appeals of these timepieces. It doesn’t have to be just for deep-sea diving either. The versatility of these watches means you can wear them to outdoor events and activities, accompanying you on that adventurous lifestyle!

Beyond the specifications of the timepieces, choosing the right dive watch involves choosing a watch that offers the right features to complement the wearer’s lifestyle. For example the strap choice can play a large part in the versatility of a watch. A stainless steel bracelet means that you wear the watch outdoors/diving while also wearing to formal functions and business meetings. Having a rubber strap means that comfortability is key, and the watch is used mainly for outdoors and everyday activities.

James Bond shows us that a great dive watch can be worn for formal and outdoor occasions!

Case material also plays a large factor in the choice of watch as well. Stainless steel cases are the common choice for its corrosion resistance. However, materials like bronze and ceramic offer different specs while also completely changing the look of the timepiece! And this is a major factor when considering the right watch. Aesthetic looks are just as important as functionality as it’s a statement piece that shows your personality and character to the world. In modern-day watchmaking, we have the luxury of having many different design styles and dial colour choices that cater to a variety of different personal preferences.

Whether you’re an avid diver, a watch collector or someone that’s after a timepiece with both stylistic looks and functionality, a dive watch under $10,000 Aud an excellent balance of performance, style, and versatility that few other watch styles can match.

Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green Bronze

The Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green Bronze is a colourful take on an stand-out diver’s watch from the brand. Being a dive watch, the brand has equipped the timepiece with a uni-directional rotating bezel, along with a simple to read dial that is also highly legible even during low-light thanks to the generous amount of Super-LumiNova on both the indices and hands.

The watch comes with 300m water resistance while also being ISO 6425 compliant, which means that Bell & Ross can officially call this a dive watch. But that’s not what makes this watch “out of the ordinary”. The dial aesthetics are just beautiful. The four main colours of the watch, teal green for the dial, black for the bezel and rubber strap, white for the Super-LumiNova and bronze for the case all work together to produce an attractive looking timepiece!

Related Reading:  Hands-On With The Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green Bronze

Reference: BR0392-D-LT-BR/SRB
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $7,900
For More Information: www.bellross.com.au

Breitling Superocean Automatic 44

Breitling’s dedicating diving watch collection is the Superocean. There’s various models in this collection that come with different case sizes and dial colours to suit personal tastes. However, we have chosen this midnight blue dial one as it offers both every day wearability alongside sporting and diving activities. The watch comes with a ceramic-inlayed bezel while also having broad hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova for easy readability underwater. This ceramic-inlayed bezel is also scratch proof and will never fade in colour!

The Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 is water resistant to 300 m (1000 ft) and is also shock, sand, and saltwater resistant. The rubber strap that the watch comes with gives micro-adjustability of up to 15mm which is especially handy if you are wearing wetsuits. The watch’s aesthetics are done in a way that you can wear the watch to the beach, for a swim, diving and then out to dinner.

Reference: A17376211C1S1
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $7,390
For More Information: www.breitling.com.au

Bremont Bamford Aurora

One of my favourite watches in this collection has to be the Bremont Bamford Aurora. Just the aesthetics alone is enough to fall in love with the piece, but it also has the mechanics to back it up as well. This timepiece was created as a collaborative project between the British powerhouse duo’s Bremont and Bamford. Not only is the watch suited for diving with a cool 500m water-depth rating, but it’s also a handy traveller’s watch with a GMT function. The GMT bezel is bi-coloured polished Sapphire with 24-hour markers to set the GMT to. The daytime hours are in green lume while night-time is done in black.

And that’s what makes this timepiece stand out beautifully. The green and black colours evoke the Aurora Borealis’ dancing ribbons of light, which the piece takes its inspiration from thanks to the handiwork of George Bamford. Another unique design feature is the hour indices, which feature a mixture of Arabic numerals, Roman Numerals, triangles, and rectangular shapes. While this design element may not be for everyone’s liking, this watch was designed to stand out, and I think these details work well to create very aesthetically pleasing timepiece!

Related Reading: Bremont And Bamford Watch Department Team Up Again To Produce The Bremont Bamford Aurora

Reference: S502 Supermarine Diver GMT
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $8,550
For More Information: www.bremont.com.au

Doxa Sub 600T

What’s a dive watch list without a classic Doxa timepiece? I have chosen the Sub 600T as the go-to model this time as it offers a whopping 600m water-resistance while looking the part! The beautiful thing with Doxa and their watches is that there is so many customisable options for the watches!

This Doxa Sub 600T comes with various dial colours and strap options. I chose to go with the aquamarine blue dial, as it just pops beautifully. Pairing it with the steel bracelet also gives it versatility, allowing you to wear it for different occasions. The Doxa Sub 600T is also the cheapest offering on this list, making it great value for money!

Reference: 861.10.241.10
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $2,550.00
For More Information: www.doxawatches.com.au

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

An icon when it comes to dive watches, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is a staple in any dive watch collection. The modern Omega Seamaster Diver embraces the brand’s ocean heritage, while carrying a stunning design that makes its a ideal daily wear timepiece. In fact, you can even find the Seamaster Diver 300M on the wrist of a certain 007 spy!

This particular Seamaster Diver 300M comes with a 42mm stainless steel case, with a green ceramic bezel insert with white enamel diving scale along with a matching polished green ceramic dial. The dial features the iconic laser-engraved waves which is a signature design of the Seamaster Diver models. Rated to a depth of 300m, the timepiece also features a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock, which acts as a critical safeguard against the potential hazards of helium accumulation in deep-sea diving watches.

Reference: 210.32.42.20.10.001
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $9,275
For More Information: www.omega.com.au

Oris Aquis Date Taste of Summer

Another dive watch that offers great value for money is Oris’s Aquis Date Taste of Summer. Oris is offering up two versions of the Aquis Date Taste of Summer. Firstly we get a red sunburst dial option with a white bezel with matching red markings, or a green sunburst dial with white bezel and matching green markings. Both versions are offered in a steel bracelet, adding to the versatility of the timepiece.

While the watch doesn’t come with Oris’s iconic calibre 400 movement, it does feature the calibre 733 movement which operates at a high-frequency of 4hz (28,800 VpH) while giving a decent power reserve of 38 hours. With the Australian summer just weeks away, this Oris Aquis Date seems like the perfect option to get a reminder of the taste of summer all year round!

Related Reading: The Oris Aquis Has Fun In The Sun

Reference: 01 733 7787 4137-07 8 22 04PEB (Green)/01 733 7787 4138-07 8 22 04PEB (Red)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: Approx. AUD $4000
For More Information: www.oris.com

Rado’s New Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton 

Rado has continuously pushed the boundaries of watchmaking by pioneering new materials into their watch collections while still keeping the timepieces affordable. The brand’s Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection of dive watches is a testament to this, as it features different versions of the timepiece with different materials, colours and dial aesthetics.

This version of the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic features a skeleton dial with large hour indices and hands filled with white Super-LumiNova to stand out against the movement in the background. The watch comes with a deep navy-blue ceramic case with a matt finish, along with a rubber strap in blue to match. Rated to a water depth of 300m, the timepiece also has a open case back which allows the wearer to see the brand’s R808 calibre movement.

Related Reading: Introducing Rado’s New Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton – This Time In Blue!

Reference: R32153209
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $7,350
For More Information: www.rado.com.au

Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

As Seiko celebrates its 100th anniversary this year, it has been taking a trip down memory lane by revisiting some of its classic and iconic timepieces and creating modern reinterpretations of them. One such model is the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver. This model is a recreation of a classic diver’s watch from Seiko that was released three years after the brand entered the dive watch market in 1965.

The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver is offered in either a black dial or white dial with styling that references the 1968 model’s aesthetics. Of course, the timepiece has been updated to modern standards, as it now features the brand’s 8L35 movement that beats at a high-frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) and gives out a power reserve of approximately 55 hours, while offering 300m of water resistance.

Related Reading: REVIEW: Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

Reference: SLA077J (White) & SLA 079J (Black)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $4,550
For More Information: www.seikoboutique.com.au

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT

TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer is a dedicated outdoor collection designed for an adventure lifestyle. The watch features extreme durability, water resistance, and, in this case, a caller GMT function for travellers. When compared to previous versions of the Aquaracer Professional 300, the model comes with a more ergonomic case size, re-designed dials with 3D texturing, and a movement with COSC certification.

The watch is offered in either a blue dial or green dial variant, and both colour options are stunning in their own right. We had the chance to go hands-on with the green dial (which you can read Matt’s review below), and I must say the aesthetic detail is very well executed. The dial features a cyclops window at 6 o’clock for easy viewing of the date, while the hour indices are three-dimensional and contrast beautifully against the green backdrop, providing easy readability. The green dial itself features a wave pattern, which is a reference to the seafloor currents. As a bonus to this dive watch, which is rated to a depth of 300m, is the GMT function, which is used through the green hand on the dial and the 24-hour time on the bezel.

Related Reading: REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT

Reference: WBP5115.BA0013
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: AUD $6,100
For More Information: www.tagheuer.com.au

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue

While the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue was created for the motorsports world as it was released to celebrate the return of the Visa CashApp RB Formula One Team, the timepiece still has all the right characteristics to make it an ideal dive watch. This first is the 200m of water resistance, which is done in accordance with ISO standards. The watch also has METAS Master Chronometer certification and has been tested in six different positions. The automatic Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U is resistant to magnetic fields and offers a power reserve of 70 hours.

With the specs aside, what I love about this watch is the colour scheme. The aesthetics of the watch mimic the livery of the Visa CashApp RB Formula One Team, and the colours as stunning! The beautiful blue dial contrasts well with the white hour indices and hands, while the black bezel and black ceramic case offers lets the dial stand out in a very appealing manner.

Related Reading: The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Goes Blue

Reference: M79210cnu-0007
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $7,600
For More Information: www.tudor.com

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