A partnership spanning almost six decades, Rolex’s support for golf is one of the longest and most successful partnerships in the world of sport. The brand’s commitment to the ancient game is marked by the longevity of the partnership.  

The Rolex’s enduring relationship with the sport began almost 60 years ago in 1967, with the luxury watchmaker partnering with the “The Big Three” legendary players of Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus and Gary Player. Since this partnership, it marked the beginning of a relationship with the sport, in which Rolex’s commitment to continuous improvement and forming important partnerships.  

In 2024, Rolex once again significantly expanded their involvement in gold by becoming a major partner of golfing tournaments around the world. So far this year, Rolex has been involved in Th Masters (April 11-14, USA), The PGA Championship (May 16-19, 2024, USA), U.S Open (13-16 June, USA), The Open (18-21 July), The Amundi Evian Championship (11-14 July), Solheim Cup (13-15 September USA), The Ryder Cup (26-28 September, USA) and The Presidents Cup (27-29 September, Canada). 

The brand’s new position includes being the Official Timekeeper for flagship events in Australasia, such as the BMW Australian PGA Championship which took place from the 21^st to the 24^th of November 2024, at the Royal Queensland in Brisbane. The brand is also supporting the Challenger PGA Tour of Australasia and the WPGA Tour of Australasia.  

The iconic Rolex clock which has become a feature of golf events over the past decades at all levels of the game across the world was proudly displayed at the first tee of Royal Queensland’s course at the BMW Australian PGA Championship.

”Rolex is proud to expand its support of golf in Australia, a coutnry with more than 3.5million active golf players and some of the world’s top ranking golf courses. The PGA of Australia promotes a thriving industry of golf professionals and presents a world-class tournament with the annual Australian PGA Championship event. We look forward to this exciting new partnership and to further developing the alignment between Rolex and Golf in this region.”
Managing Directior of Rolex Australia, Benoit Falletti 

This isn’t the first time that Rolex has supported and shown its dedication to Australian golf. The watchmaker was partnered with top players like Adam Scott (2013 Master Champion) and Jason Day (2015 PGA Championship winner) among its family of Testimonies.  

By aligning itself with prestigious events throughout the world and in our home turf, Rolex emphasizes its dedication to helping both established talents and the next generation of golfers. The iconic Rolex clock, seen at Royal Queensland over the weekend, shows the brand’s renewed commitment to the sport, bringing together time-honoured precision alongside the enthusiasm of the modern game.  

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With Rolex now partnering with PGA of Australia as of 2024, the brand re-establishes itself as the leader in golf sponsorship, solidifying its reputation as an official of the sport. Through the various partnerships with professional tours around the world and in Australian, or through the sponsorship with various players, Rolex’s involvement will continue to inspire and elevate the world of golf.  

Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting its third edition of the Capsule Collection, which is a meticulously curated collection of rare and sought-after timepieces created by the manufacturer. These timepieces were produced during the ‘golden age’ of watchmaking, from the 1920s to the 1970s. Jaeger-LeCoultre already unveiled two Capsule Collections last year, the first in January 2023 in Geneva and the second in June 2023 in Los Angeles, as part of the brand’s 190th-anniversary celebrations. Make sure to check out our first article on the Jager-LeCoultre’s “The Collectibles” as we take a deeper look into these first two collections!

Related Reading: Jaeger-LeCoultre “The Collectibles” Is The Rebirth Of The Brand’s Vintage Timepieces

Watch Advice had the opportunity to sit down with Mathieu Sauret (Product Marketing and Heritage Director) from Jaeger-LeCoultre in Singapore to discuss the story behind “The Collectibles” and how the third Capsule Collection will feature. The third Capsule Collection has been unveiled in Singapore as a token of appreciation for the country’s strong watch community.

The watches were unveiled at the iconic “The Warehouse Hotel” in Singapore. Matthieu Sauret flew in from Switzerland to introduce the third capsule to the Singaporean market. After the watches were introduced to the local press, a panel discussion was held between Casimir Watteau (Managing Director of South East Asia and Oceania for Jaeger-LeCoultre), Matthieu Sauret, and local vintage watch expert Shawn Tan.

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This third Capsule Collection features ten exceptional timepieces curated for avid watch collectors. For those who may not know, Jaeger-LeCoultre released “The Collectibles” for those collectors who wish to acquire one of La Grande Maison’s most emblematic timepieces. It was also conceived for those enthusiasts who wanted to deepen their knowledge of a period where the watches created were significant in the advancement of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the world of horology.

Matthieu Sauret

“Initially, we felt the need to create a collector’s book. We felt the need to write the story of each of the watches and it started to look like chapters, and since we didn’t really have a collectors book, we felt we should start this endeavour. So there was a lot of discussion around the selection of the timepeices, because we have created so many timepeices in our history and collections, very interesting collections too. So we decided to create a collection of the most interesting and collectible timepieces in our history.“

“We ended up choosing seventeen watches, and really, with this idea of collectability and the most interesting to collect. Therefore we came up with the name “The Collectibles” from Jaeger-LeCoultre. We felt that with all the chapters of different timepieces, it could also become a book. At the same time, we buy watches for the museum and the exhibitions we have worldwide. Several watches on the upper market should be auctioned with dealers and whatnot, and there are some watches that we already own, maybe several models in perfect condition for museum condition. But we always see new ones coming up in auctions around the world, so we felt maybe we could buy those timepeices, and when we already have a very good model in our books, we can put it for sale in this concept of “The Collectibles” along with the book.“

“From the 17 models in the book, we sell the 17 that come up for sale! We do a full restoration of them, we don’t touch the outer part of the timepiece, so that we can keep the vintage aspect intact, we keep it unpolished, we don’t change the hands unless they are too worn off, we don’t change the dial and so on. Still, we do a complete cleaning, dismantling, and reassembling the calibre movement. These watches that are maybe 60 or 70 years old are good to live a long life again, and people who want to buy them can enjoy a museum timepiece in their collection, which is very important for us and makes a lot of sense.”

The Collectibles series has seventeen watches in total. The brand chose the number seventeen specifically because these were some of the significant timepieces that made history for Jaeger-LeCoultre or watchmaking as a whole, created during the period defined as the “golden era” of watchmaking. Each timepiece that is part of “The Collectibles” has its own distinctive style, which stems from the period it was created in.

The third Capsule Collection features ten timepieces that range from rarely-seen interpretations of the Reverso and Memovox with eye-catching dials to classic examples. This Capsule Collection also features more highly sought-after models like the Master Mariner Deep Sea from 1970 and the Triple Calendar from 1945. Another timepiece that stands out in this collection is the Powermatic. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Powermatic was known for its reliability, beauty and the power-reserve indicator on the dial.

Matthieu Sauret

“In regards to the selection number, we didn’t plan to do exactly 17 models; we started with the list, and we ended up on 17, because all these watches that span from the late 1920s to the late 1970s represent a time period where its called the “golden age” of fine watchmaking where watches were designed by hand without computer editing tools etc. Watches were worn and made for a reason, such as telling time; there was no digital tool that could tell time during this “golden age” period.”

“The 17 pieces were selected basically from 3 important criteria. The first one was the “historical importance” of the manufacture of Jaeger-LeCoultre and watchmaking as a whole. For example, we created a generation of watches when you see the Reverso. The second is the watchmaking pedigree. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker, so it’s quite important to have agreeable watchmaking content, and all of them, in a way, represent a watchmaking first or a decisive moment for watchmaking in the watchmaking pedigree. The third element was the design element that the watch represents. All of the chosen models represent a period of style and design that was important in the history of mechanical watchmaking. All of this makes these watches go down in history, interesting for collectors to buy because they are unusual. They bring out something, and they have changed the history of not only Jaeger-LeCoultre but also watchmaking as a whole.”

For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the hunt for vintage timepieces is not only for The Collectibles series but also for the museum in the Manufacture. Finding vintage timepieces is all in the thrill of the chase. Sometimes you may come across some incredible and rare timepieces in places that you may also least expect. Its also the case of having a great network that you can rely on when a rare Jaeger-LeCoultre piece pops up, they are able to notify you and jump on the chance.

Matthieu Sauret

“The beauty of what we do and buying watches for museums is that you never know what you are going to find. Because watches come up for auction, you cannot look for something particular; just have to be aware and have a lot of people be in touch with you and have a good relationship with everybody, so when they spot something amazing when the pieces go up for sale or auction. Sometimes, you find a time capsule that takes you through what this watch is, what this watch is made for, and who owned it, so it’s really a travel through time, and you are never really sure when and how you are going to find it. So, all the watches that are here for sale in Singapore represent a story behind each piece. But the beauty is not only just sort of newer stock; it’s also with watches that are 70 or 80 years of age that have aged beautifully with time. And some of these watches will have a patina that will bring more beauty in the design. So, it’s a time capsule within each watch being sold.”

When The Collectibles first started, it was a way for Jaeger-LeCoultre to increase awareness and knowledge about the history of their timepieces. While some collectors know of the historical value of the timepiece they may hold, and, in turn, may want to sell it back to Jaeger-LeCoultre, most of the time, it has been the case of the owner not knowing they have such an interesting timepiece on their hands. They watch could have been passed down from generation to generation as some of these timepeices can be more than 80 years old!

Matthieu Sauret

“What has happened the most is that a lot of collectors have really interesting watches, but they may not think that it’s that interesting or valuable when they purchase them on the spur of the moment. After they learn the history of this watch and they find out that its a whole other world, and they find it to be fascinating. It’s also the case that the collectors that might have wanted to sell the timepiece, after finding out about the history of the watch, actually want to keep it now and get it serviced, at least for the calibre to enjoy the watch much longer. This has definitely been something that has been like a side-effect of the project. This was the goal from the beginning: to get people interested in the watches and to learn the timepiece’s story.”

Just for clarification, The Collectibles only feature 17 historical Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces. This means that from 1920 to 1980, Jaeger-LeCoultre found 17 references that, as mentioned earlier, have either a historical significance for the brand or the world of horology, or have a unique design that belongs to the specific time period it was created in. From these 17 references, Jaeger-LeCoultre will hunt down as many as possible, to which they will then put them towards a “Capsule Collection”. These Capsule Collections will feature different versions of the 17 references; however, they won’t feature all 17 at once. It can be the same reference from the original 17 models, but perhaps in different materials or dial colours.

Matthieu Sauret

“So we cater to only 17 models, and among the 17 models we offer in each capsule collection, what we found is that each timepiece of that particular reference can be quite unique and quite different. Within the Reverso for example, there is an array of different dials, and there is different case materials, some cases for ladies, some for men. Even within those 17 models, it also shows the wide array and inspiration of Jaeger-LeCoultre in those years to create really amazing watches with different iterations of the same reference model.”

“Collectors have always been driven by different interests, so I think all the models that we have shown have captured attention. I suppose one of the things that comes to mind is the Memovox. It’s a calibre that is present among several models, but one that stands out is the deep sea alarm. It’s the first diving watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and it was the first diving watch in the world with an alarm. They are very rare, and we have never offered one in a capsule because they are very hard to find. So this is certainly a model that has captured the attention of people a lot, and when we do the capsule collections, we always try to bring the Museum pieces along so people can see that what we sell is really museum-worthy quality.”

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Restoring Vintage timepieces is certainly no easy task. However, jaeger-LeCoultre have been fortunate enough to be doing restoration works for over 40 years. When Watch Advice had the opportunity to take a Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture tour, we saw some parts of the facility where restoration of vintage timepeices occur, with several watchmakers hard at work! Through these restoration works, it also gives you a deeper appreciation for the timepieces, and Jaeger-LeCoultre rich and extension history.

Matthieu Sauret

“You know we at Jaeger_LeCoultre were very lucky because first, we have been doing restoration works for over 40 years, and all the watches we feature in this Collectibles collection are born from the Manufacture. We were established in 1833, and all the watches that we are selling in Singapore for the third capsule collection have calibres that have been manufactured within the company. So all the watches that came have been assembled within our walls. So, we not only have the plans, all the calibres, information, and some of the vintage parts, but We also have the knowledge that has been passed on from watchmaker to watchmaker. Restoration is still a challenge, of course, because the calibres are vintage and historic, but it’s not something that we haven’t done before. In a way, these watches are “coming back home”, so it makes it a bit easier for us to work on them.”

The three different Capsule Collections in The Collectibles have all had three different locations in which they were unveiled, and watch aficionados, collectors, and clients could see these special vintage watches up close. The first Capsule Collection was unveiled in Geneva in January 2023, while the second Capsule Collection was showcased mid-way through last year in Los Angeles. Now, this third and latest Capsule Collection is being shown in Asia in Singapore, a country in which Jaeger-LeCoultre has seen a lot of love, especially in regards to their vintage timepieces.

Even though the third Capsule Collection is being unveiled in Singapore, this doesn’t mean that the sale of these vintage timepieces is restricted. The whole collection is up for purchase online, which means that it gives buyers the possibility of owning a Jaeger-LeCoultre Capsule Collection timepiece regardless of where you are in the world!

Matthieu Sauret

“So each time we present a Capsule timepiece, we put it for sale, and it goes really quickly. Unfortunately, we never have enough. We have many more requests than we can offer watches, and on the two first Capsule Collections, we have a lot of sales from around the world. In Asia, there are a lot of sales. Singapore was one of the markets that captured a lot of attention. So when we discussed about having one capsule revealed in Asia, we chose Singapore. It’s a place that I feel has people who are very into vintage watches, and interest is high in collectible pieces. We wanted to do a celebration for Singapore for the love they have shown towards this project!”

“And yes, the collection is available to everyone! We’ll, of course, accommodate a digital preview of the piece if a client is interested, but yeah, we wanted to keep a global view of the Collectibles project and be able to share this around the world and not just selective to just one area, even though we have this nice exhibition here in Singapore and people are able to view it in person. The idea was to travel but also be available around the world as it is very important for us that everybody has a chance to buy this kind of timepiece, not just be restricted to one country or territory.“

When The Collectibles venture started, it certainly bought a lot of demand for Jaeger-LeCoultre vintages back into the spotlight. With demand for certain vintage models being high, its a point to consider whether the brand may release a modern re-interpretation for that particular historical reference, much like how other Swiss brands have done it.

But Jaeger-LeCoultre doesn’t see it this way. The modern collections are rather a “continuation” of the historical timepieces, and The Collectibles collections bridge the gap between historic timepieces and modern re-interpretations. In a way, this is the brand offering a modern interpretation of a historical reference by keeping much of the timepiece in the same design as when it was released and only changing what’s required to keep it ticking.

Matthieu Sauret

“Jaeger-LeCoultre always works with the past. Every creation that we have has some inspiration from our history, and when we make watches, it’s a continuation of our past creations, so I would be more inclined to talk about continuity rather than bringing back a model from the past. In our range of watches, for example, we have the Reverso along with the Polaris, which are all part of The Collectibles. Still, it’s more of a continuation of the line rather than simply a reproduction of an original model. For this, we have The Collectibles, whereby you can buy a vintage piece and a reproduction of a vintage timepiece with modern technology.“

“I think the beauty and fun of watchmaking is that you have watches here that are almost 80 years of age, and they still can be worn and operate beautifully, and I think that’s the beauty of fine watchmaking. Something that is extremely timeless that you are going to be able to wear for your entire life and also be able to pass it to your kids. So I think watchmaking with this essence is extremely beautiful, and “The Collectibles” adds to this timelessness of watchmaking.“

So this all begs the question, what is the main benefit of buying through Jaeger-LeCoultre, rather than buying it straight from the vintage market or through auction? The main obvious answer is that through Jaeger-LeCoultre, you aren’t just simply getting a historical timepiece. You are getting a watch that’s part historical and slightly modern. The timepiece has been restored where required (mainly the calibre movement) to keep the watch operational while keeping the design and vintage appearance of the timepiece intact.

Buying the watches through these Capsule Collections also offers the buyer protection incase the watch needs maintenance or if anything was to go wrong. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers buyers a two-year warranty, which gives confidence in knowing that it can be taken back to Jaeger-LeCoultre to be repaired free of charge. This is certainly not something you’ll get through the vintage watch market.

Matthieu Sauret

“So the brand is curated and working on curation, so we see several dozen watches every day that are going to auction, so our knowledge or our ability to find very rare pieces helps with finding these rare pieces. Sometimes, finding these watches can be a service, and we see it as such, but we, of course, encourage people to hunt the watches for themselves. If you want a service provided to you, then we can do it. It’s also in terms of the knowledge. We bring out the knowledge of the watches, and then maybe you go out into the market and find a similar watch. You can always send it back to the Manufacture for restoration, as this is something we offer and enjoy doing.”

“The auction market is full of great watches, and “The Collectibles” is a great way to shed light on the great history of fine watchmaking. It’s a way to tell the history of the La Grande Maison and watchmaking as a whole. But it’s also a way to highlight the beauty and the interest of collectors in going and hunting for pieces. So we really encourage you to do it alongside us!“

“All the watches in “The Collectibles” are sold with a new box and a new strap. We also feature instruction and an extract from the archives done by our expert watchmakers, which tells the year of the production, the exact reference model, the metals used, and the name of the calibre, alongside other useful information. Also, we gift a book of The Collectibles, the official collector’s book in this venture, as part of the purchase.”

When one gets involved this closely with a project like this, it can be quite difficult not to get caught up in the interest of it all and want to own a vintage timepiece. With so many different pieces that come through the Manufacture, each with its own story, not only about the timepiece but also about its ownership, each individual timepiece is unique. For Mathieu, however, this isn’t the case, as he has to refrain from buying watches for private ownership that can form part of The Collectibles or even go towards the Jaeger-LeCoultre museum.

Matthieu Sauret

“So for the sake of the project, I refrain from getting any vintage timepieces that are part of The Collectibles collection, I’m more into “young timers” which are like 1990 watches. Of course, when you work on a project like this, you cannot be a part of it privately also. But it has certainly developed my love for vintage watches immensely. I first wrote The Collectibles book with my team through lengthy research. I was also involved in the process of being able to buy these hidden gem watches for not only the museum but also for The Collectibles collection.“

“It’s definitely a hunt; it’s very adrenaline-driven to sort of go on a quest to find those nice watches. And when they come up, when you receive them for restoration, it’s always amazing to see, and when you present them to collectors, you are also enjoying the moment and sharing the love of the Jaeger-LeCoultre. The whole company embarked on this project, and I think it’s wonderful to have the whole team behind it because a lot of people who work on the new watches at the manufacturer probably didn’t know all the stories of the watches also themselves. They knew some stories we didn’t, so there were many rich knowledge exchanges.”

“But buying vintage watches and following the vintage market, it’s crazy how some gems have been there forever and been worn, and sometimes they come up, and the person wearing them didn’t know how rare or extraordinary the timepiece was! So when they realise they are actually owning a timeless watch with significance in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history, its exciting to see!“

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The Collectibles – Capsule #3 Timepieces

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Small Seconds

Reference: QVE20100
Details: 39 x 21 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 69,500
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Parking

Reference: QVE85802
Details: 34 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 36,500
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner Deep Sea Barracuda

Reference: QVE55802
Details: 40 x 37 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 44,700
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris II

Reference: QVE87002
Details: 50 x 43 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Automatic Calendar

Reference: QVE85504
Details: 37 mm – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 82,500
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duopan Coulissante

Reference: QVEDUO01
Details: Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 36,500
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Lady’s Watch

Reference: QVE64000
Details: Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 73,000
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Powermatic

Reference:  QVERASC2
Details: 33 mm – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 32,900
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Lady

Reference: QVE50101
Details: 16 x 33 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar

Reference: QVE27210
Details: 35 MM – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Third Capsule Collection Location

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s third Capsule Collection will be available for viewing from October 13th to 23rd at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Official Boutique in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore.

Address

2 Bayfront Avenue
B2M-231 & 231A, Casino Level
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
018972 Singapore – Singapore

Opening Hours

Monday: 10:30 – 22:00
Tuesday: 10:30 – 22:00
Wednesday: 10:30 – 22:00
Thursday: 10:30 – 22:00
Friday: 10:30 – 23:00
Saturday: 10:30 – 23:00
Sunday: 10:30 – 22:00

For more information, please head to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Collectibles website!

Poetry of Time is Van Cleef & Arpels is at the forefront of their watchmaking as they blend inventiveness and fantasy together to create enchanting timepieces. From July 17th to 30th 2024, Van Cleef & Arpels as a first for the Australian market, will highlight some of their most emblematic timepieces. These creations will be displayed at the timepiece pop up in the Chadstone shopping centre in Melbourne.

The pop-up will display up to 40 watches, showcasing Van Cleef & Arpels poetic world through the different universes and stories that are dear to the brand, such as Love Stories, Enchanting Nature and Poetic Astronomy. Each timepiece that will be present depicts a moment of grace and enchantment, expressing Van Cleef & Arpels’ unique Poetry of Time. Time is expressed through movements of nature, feminine figures and love stories that come to life beneath the glass of the dials.

Visitors will also be treated to pop up special, with Van Cleef & Arpels stating that “Visitors to the pop up may choose to share a heartfelt letter to their loved ones, with the option to either take home, or post on-site a bespoke Van Cleef & Arpels’ postcard. The postcard is available in an array of Parisian cityscape imagery as captured through the Maison’s romantic lense.”

The timepieces on display show Van Cleef & Arpels history and their emblematic sources of inspiration that convey “poetry” of each and every moment. In the timepieces we are treated to the poetic dance of Fairies and ballerinas ticking away the hours, along with the rythem of nature as it meets the cadance of the cosmos.

While there will be lot of timepeices of show depicting poetic artistry of Van Cleef & Arpels, we have outlined below some stand out models that you will not want to miss!

Pont Des Amoureux Collection

The Concept of the Pont Des Amoureux Collection is to celebrate love and intense feeling of a long-awaited rendezvous. The image portrayed on the dial is that of a young woman and young boy meeting on a bridge in Paris, united in tender affection. The timepiece features a unique retrograde movement to announce the hours and minutes. Whats special about this movement is that young boy and woman approach each other in animation, to share a romantic kiss at noon and midnight!

Van Cleef & Arpels has made it so, so that the the poetry of this animation can be viewed at any time, through an on-demand module that allows the wearer to replay the romantic scene.

Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Jour watch

This version of the Lady Arpels Pont Des Amoureux Jour watch comes in a 38mm rose gold case, with a rose gold bezel and crown. The bezel is also adorned with round diamonds, highligthing the timepeice’s luxury feel. The dial is a coloured grisaille enamel painted dial, which depicts the two lovers meeting on the bridge to share a kiss. This version of the timepeice, however, is set during the daytime, where we can see a cloudy sky in the backdrop of Paris city.

Tender Seasons

Van Cleef & Arpels Tender Seasons collection is a different take on the Pont Des Amoureux watch. This time, what we are treated to is the two lovers meeting on the bridge all year long. A series of jewellery watches make up this collection, whereby the two lovers rendezvous amid a decor of diverse seasonal colours and motifs.

Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Automne watch

The Lady Arpels Pont Des Amoureux Automne watch comes in a 38mm yellow gold case, which perfectly accentuate’s the summer feel to the timepeice. Once again, the timepeice features diamonds on the bezel, which blends in nicely with the beautiful imagery shown on the dial. This imagery is a coloured grisaille enamel dial with yellow gold for the bridge. Summertime in paris is beatfdully shown in a artistic sense, by using colours such as yellow, orange and other warm nuetral tones. The timepiece comes with a yellow gold strap which has round yellow sapphires, round spessartite garnets and round diamonds, depicting imagery of flowers on the bracelet.

Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Été watch

Another vibrant timepiece belonging to the Tender Seasons collection is the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Été watch. This time, the watch is presented in a 38mm white gold case, bezel and crown. The coloured grisaille enamel miniature painting this time shows the beauty of the fall season in Paris. The greenery of the trees, leaves and plants stand out nicely due to the vibrant green colour. The bracelet of the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Été watch is done in white gold, featuring round yellow sapphires and round spessartite garnets.

Enchanting Nature

Nature is a cherised inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels. Since the brand’s beginnings, the poetry and vitality of nature has been infused into many of their creations. Intimately linked to the passing of time, this theme comes out in many of Van Cleef & Arpels’ watch collections, including the brand’s Enchanting Nature collection.

Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch

Out of the different timepieces from the Enchanting Nature collection that will be on display at the pop up in Chadstone, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch stands out for its colourful imagery with springlike heus. Petals and butterflies in miniature painting, branches in sculpted gold and clouds crafted in mother-of-pearl are all enhanced by meticulously set gemstones.

The passing of time is displayed in these three-dimensional dials with the openinig and closing of twelve corollas. Telling time becomes a spectacle as the flowers blossom and close, recreating the scenery of the dial every 60 minutes. This is a techincal feat of engineering, as it is quite a challenge of combining so many modules, with module having a flower that has a opening and closing mechanism. With each passing hour, the open flowers close to make way for a new combination as time sweeps by to the rhythm of nature.

Poetic Astronomy

Another concept that has been constant throughout Van Cleef & Arpels history is their representations of the sky and cosmos. These visualisations are a source of dreams and escape for many. Over the years, this theme has been shown through many different Van Cleef & Arpel creations, including the Poetic Astronomy collection of timepieces.

Midnight Planétarium watch

The Midnight Planétarium watch houses a special self-winding mechanical movement, which features an exclusive module that has been designed in collaboration with Christian van der Klaauw. The timepiece is a stunning display of the cosmos, with the wrist becoming a theatre for a miniaturised ballet of the Sun and its neighbouring planets. Each of the heavenly bodies move at its actual ryhthm in space, making their way around the dial over time. A major feat of technical design, the Moon itself rotates around the Earth in 29.5 days on the Lady Arpels Planétarium dial, creating a celestial choreography renewed daily. All of this is encased in a 44mm case in white gold set with diamonds, proving the elegance to a visual masterpiece.

With many more timepieces like this on show, Van Cleef & Arpels pop up in Chadstone is sure to be a delight to the visual senses with not only artistic display but also the technical marvel of the animations on the dial. Don’t miss your chance to be in the few in Australia that get to see Van Cleef & Arpels Poetry of Time creations!

Exhibition details

Pop up opened to the public from July 17th to 30th 2024
Chadstone Shopping Centre, Unit 413/1341 Dandenong Rd, Malvern East, Melbourne, Victoria

Monday to Wednesday: 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Thursday to Friday: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Saturday: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sunday: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms timepiece is a important part of horology for the role it played, as it was the first real tool watch used by professional divers. The Fifty Fathoms was born on 1953, and almost three years later, a beautiful new contemporary version was born.  

The Bathyscaphe, born on 1956, was designed with daily wear being in mind, with the added benefit of having diving capabilities. The Bathyscaphe timepieces had a slightly different measurements compared to the original Fifty Fathoms model, with the watch being presented with a smaller diameter and also a date window.  

The Bathyscaphe Quantieme Complet Phases de Lune (Complete Calendar Moonphase) over the years have had different aesthetic changes, especially case materials and dial colours. The model is currently presented in different variations which include: 18ct red gold case with Ceragold^TM with blue dial, a steel case with beautiful grey meteor dial and also a titanium case with the grey meteor dial. These variations of the Complete Calendar Moonphase are currently available with different strap options such as leather and fabric nato strap.  

Now, Blancpain is introducing the Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar Moonphase in a full black ceramic outfit. Blancpain has chosen ceramic as a new material to showcase this latest timepiece due to the unique attributes of ceramic. For those that are new to the world of watches, ceramic presents watch manufactures with a durable, highly-scratch resistant and hypoallergenic (make it safer to wear) material, that is also five times harder than stainless steel and almost four times harder than grade 5 titanium.  

Due to the production process of ceramic, Blancpain is producing the material locally in Switzerland as an effort to minimize the emissions produced during the manufacturing process. Due to the exceptional properties of ceramic, there is a extremely complex manufactory process. An almost 25% volume reduction must be taken into account when the material is fired at temperatures about 1400^OC. The material is machined to desired shapes using diamond tools (thanks to the superior hardness of diamond). The satin finish, which is a core element of the Bathyscaphe collection, requires a delicate and crafted process when it comes to ceramic.  

This latest Blancpain Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar Moonphase comes in three dial colours. Firstly we get the stunning blue dial, my favourite of the three colours, which is then followed by the green and black dial variants. These dial colours also makes use of sunburst finishes. The sunburst effect then gives beautiful colour variation between light and dark depending on angle of light.  

Horological complications are a key DNA element of Blancpain. In the 1980s the complete calendar complication appeared on Blancpain timepieces, which led to further research and development of other complex horological complications. The complete calendar moonphase complication defers from a perpetual calendar as the perpetual calendar only needs one adjustment (year 2100), while the annual calendar requires one adjustment per year. The complete calendar requires the watch to be adjusted 5 times per year (for every month that doesn’t have 31 days).  

The complete calendar functions on the Bathyscaphe Quantieme Complet Phases de Lune include: day and month indicator underneath 12 o’clock, a date indicator (by separate hand) around the dial in front of the hour indices and also a moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock.  

Movement

The movement inside this latest Blancpain Complete Calendar Moonphase is the brand’s existing Calibre 6654.P.4. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4hz (28,800 VpH) delivering 72 hours of power reserve. The timepiece does come with an open case back, however visibility of the movement is limited due to it being closed off by the main plate and winding-rotor.  

All-New Ceramic Bracelet

For the first time, Blancpain has created a bracelet in full ceramic. Blancpain states that “The creation of haute horologie bracelet requires the perfect alignment of the links in order to guarantee ideal ergonomics and comfort. In order to achieve this, each link is individually measured in order to guarantee the best possible fit. The bracelet features a patented mounting system that allows the links to be perfectly held together using cam-shaped pins, which guarantees remarkable resistance and great comfort on the wrist.”

In addition to the all-new ceramic bracelet, Blancpain is also offering each colour variation of this latest Complete Calendar Moonphase in either a leather strap or fabric NATO strap.  

Blancpain Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar Moon phase presentation in Hayman Island:

Watchadvice was invited to travel to beautiful Hayman Island on the Whitsundays to join with the Blancpain Australian Team. Over three days, Watch Advice had the chance to discover the brand at an intimate level and also to meet one of Blancpain’s partners, Biopixel. Biopixel is one of Australia’s leading production service providers for natural history and animal behavioural sequences, with a particular focus on aquatic life.

Outlined below is a recap of how the three days went, showcasing the hospitality of Blancpain, the stunning Hayman Island, and also the brand new Bathyscaphe timepieces!

Day 1 – Welcome Dinner / Drinks and Biopixel Team Introduction

Watch advice arrived at the Intercontinental Hotel in beautiful Hayman Island.

After check-in, everyone gathered at the Langford lawn for welcome drinks and dinner, and Blancpain Australia introduced the Biopixel team and the brand’s commitment to Ocean Commitment. See our in-depth article on Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment here.

Introduction to the Biopixel team, the work they do and the content they create for documentaries, such as “Great Barrier Reef with David Attenborough”, ‘Life in Colour with David Attenborough”, “Supernatural with James Cameron” and “life on our Planet” to name a few.

Day 2 – Great Barrier Reef, Snorkelling and Testing Out Fifty Fathoms Automatique (Ref. 5010)

Day two included a private boat tour of the Great Barrier Reef – Hook Island to Snorkelling and to test out the newly released Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique in the black dial, reference 5010.

Whilst snorkelling, the Biopixel team was recording our underwater adventures featuring the Fifty Fathoms ref 5010.

After snorkelling, we continued our journey to Whitehaven Beach for a beach tour.

On the way back to Hayman Island, the Biopexel team briefed us on the Shark activity around the islands and how they are tagging Sharks present in the area to track their movement patterns.

Once we returned back from Whitehaven Island, we had a Private dinner in the Rainforest Grove at the Intercontinental Hotel.

During the dinner, the attendees got the chance to see the exclusive world premier watch unveiling – The FFifty Fathoms Bathyscape Complete Calendar Moonphase in full ceramic.

Day 3 – See The New Watch Releases Upclose!

The following morning, the guests had the chance to see the new release watches up close and personal in the Aqua Cabanas by the pool!

Our Thoughts on the latest Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar Moonphase

Ceramic watches are certainly not new to the industry; many watch brands use them these days for watch casings, but only a handful of brands use ceramic for bracelets.

After wearing and trying my share of full ceramic watches, what I realised the most is that they feel like a toy watch due to the lightness of the material, especially on the bracelet. At times if the bracelet is light and case is heavy, and if not fitted to the wrist properly the whole watch has a tendency to move on the wrist when worn.

This is not the case for this latest Blancpain ceramic bracelet; it feels super solid just by holding the watch. The weight ratio of the bracelet and casing is well balanced, so even though it’s a ceramic watch, on the wrist, it feels like an SS watch, thus removing the “toy-like feel” on the wrist. Our favourite of the three-dial colours is the Blue dial, as it feels much more colour-balanced with the Ceramic, and it looks great on the wrist!

Reference: 5054-0140-01S (Blue Dial – Ceramic Bracelet), 5054-0140-052A (Blue Dial – Leather Strap), 5054-0140-NAOA (Blue Dial – NATO Strap),

Specifications

• Case Size: 43.6mm
• Case Thickness: 14.1mm
• Case Material: Black ceramic
• Movement: Manufacture Caliber 6654.P
• Power Reserve: Approx. 72 hours
• Water Resistance: 300m (30 bar)
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Strap/Bracelet: Available in either ceramic bracelet, leather strap or NATO fabric strap.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $41,400 (Blue Dial – Ceramic Bracelet), AUD $29,300 (Blue Dial – Leather Strap), AUD $29,300 (Blue Dial – NATO Strap)

Availability: Available through Blancpain boutiques, authorised retailers or online at blancpain.com

This year’s fair was all about complicated pieces. Well, for me, at least, it felt that way. As expected, the showcase booths did not disappoint, especially from brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Van Cleef and Arpels, Ulysse Nardin, A. Lange & Sohne, to name a few. 

Cartier Santos Dumont “Rewind”

Cartier Showcased some great-looking watches during the fair, and while they had some show-stoppers, my pick from the latest releases is the “Rewind.” 

Why the “Rewind”? 

For one, it’s not a complicated watch. What’s complicated is how you read time on this watch. Since the numerals are inverted or running anti-clockwise, the time is essentially read backwards. So you read the time from 11 to 1 as it is supposed to read from 1 to 12. 

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This watch will be somewhat difficult to understand at first, but it will definitely keep you on your toes when reading time. So, for this coolness factor, it gets my pick from the brand. 

It comes in a platinum case with a burgundy dial and looks seriously great on the wrist!

Jaeger LeCoultre Duometer Chronograph Moon 

I always get excited to see the new booth setup for the brand, as each year they outdo themselves, and this year was no different. 

Themed “The Precision Maker”  this year, it was all about the Duometer collections. I, for one, was really excited to see this as this collection really sums up what the brand is capable of – precision watchmaking. 

Why the “Chronograph Moon”?

For starters, the Platinum case with the copper dial is a seriously good-looking combination. If that weren’t enough, staring at the dial and caseback, you would realise how phenomenal the Duometer mechanism is.

The manual wind calibre 391 has twin barrels and two geat trains (you can see the power reserve in each barrel on the dial side at 5 and 7 o’clock). On the dial side is where it gets all exciting. At 2 o’clock, the chronograph counters and moon phase are all displayed as one. At 6 o’clock is the jumping 1/6th of a second. The hour/minutes with the day-night indicator is displayed at 9 o’clock. 

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The Duometer Chrono moon is very theatrical on the wrist. To appreciate it, you must see the motion of the central second hand running with the chrono second hand and jumping seconds at 6 o’clock. 

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph 

I am a fan of chronographs, and when I first heard of the Onlywatch submission from the brand, the only watch Monaco Rattarapante 

Fast forward to 2024, I was excited to see what the brand would release for Watches and Wonders, and they did not disappoint. 

Why the “Monaco Split-second Chronograph”?

Rattrapante, or the Split-seconds chronograph, is one of the most complicated watches the brand has created to date. Its function is to measure the timing of two separate events simultaneously. A perfect example of this is measuring the delta between coming first and second in a race and how appropriate for the brand given their involvement with racing.

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The TH81-00 calibre movement was created in partnership with esteemed manufacturer Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. It is made entirely of titanium and is TAG Heuer’s lightest mechanical chronograph movement to date. Operating at a high-frequency rate of 5Hz, the TH81-00 calibre produces a 65-hour power reserve and 55 hours when the chronograph is in operation. 

Carol Forestier-Kasapi, the brand’s movement director, perfectly sums up what this watch means to the brand. 

“Every Component of the watch reflects our passion for horological artistry.”

Rolex 1908 Platinum with an Ice-Blue Dial 

Launched in 2023, the 1908 collection belongs to the perpetual collection and is a reinterpretation of traditional horological style imbued with the quintessential expertise and aesthetic heritage of Rolex.

Why the “Platinum with an Ice-Blue dial.”?

The standout features for me are the ice blue dial featuring a guilloche rice-grain motif and the minute track, which is surrounded by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, also guilloché.

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39mm platinum case has an open caseback (rare for Rolex ) that showcases the calibre 7140 and is paired with a brown alligator leather strap. It looks so great on the wrist (well, at least on my wrist, anyway!)

This version of the 1908 will change how the whole collection is viewed!

A.Lange & Sohne Datograph Perpetual Honeygold “Lumen”

First released in 2016, Datograph Perpetual has been a great success for the brand. This year at Watches and Wonders, the brand went all out in creating the Honeygold Lumen version!

Why the Datograph Perpetual Honeygold “Lumen”?

Three complications in one watch: the perpetual calendar, Flyback Chronograph, and neatly tucked-away tourbillon. Perhaps the best feature of this watch is not the complications but the Lume.

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It looks as if the entire dial has been coated in lume, which is displayed through the crystal clear sapphire dial. The watch’s hands, subdials, date window, tachymeter scale on the outer flange of the dial, you name, its been coated in lume. What this ultimately does is, give the watch an unrivalled appearance at night. All of this is encased in the brand’s famous 18k Honeygold case, which completes luxury look of this high-complication timepiece.

When I think of Hublot, one of the first things that comes to my mind is the Big Bang, followed by the Hybrid rubber strap they pioneered back in 1980, which the brand is famous for. So, when I got the chance to test out the Big Bang in Blue Indigo Ceramic, I was excited because I got to try out a watch that doesn’t look like a Hublot but is still very much a Hublot.

Big Bang was first released in 2005, which paved the way for the brand and its collections, such as Classic Fusion and Spirit of Big Bang, and has now evolved into highly complicated timepieces and material experimentation. Fifteen years later, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first-ever integrated Big Bang, and in 2022, released during watches and wonders, the world saw four unique Big Bang Ceramic monochrome colourways. 

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Blue Indigo, Sky-blue, Sand Beige and Jungle green represent the elements of water, earth and wood. An indigo blue from the Majorelle Garden, the streets of Chefchaouen in Morocco, and the Blue City of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. A sky blue from the South Seas. A sand beige from the deserts, and the beaches of the Caribbean. And a jungle green from the tropical forests. 

Initial Thoughts:

Anyone who knows me or follows me on Instagram knows I love my blue dials. So when I first saw this in Watches and Wonders, it was one of my favourite shades of blue that I had noticed during the fair. Now, I only got to see this watch inside the fair and have yet to have a chance to see it under natural light. Upon seeing it under sunlight, I was taken away by how bright this shade of blue is! It’s like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Blue dial, which is a polarising bright blue colour, but it’s got a steel case and bracelet to break up the colour. That’s not the case here; everything is bright and polarising, and it’s very much a Hublot. This watch may not be for everyone, but after wearing this watch for two weeks straight, which is a big deal for me given the access we have for watches at WatchAdvice, I began to really appreciate what Hublot has done here with the integrated big bang.

Here is another thing that got me by suprise, how photogenic this watch is, the blue-indigo photographs so well that I had a hard time taking a bad picture, its one of those watches that I had fun photographing and I’ll let you decide from these pics in review. 

Before I go any further, I want to get a couple of things I don’t like about this watch out of the way. The first is the date wheel. The numerals are light, and I have to really look hard at the dial to notice the date; it gets harder to read under direct sunlight. The second might be fine for some, but if you are the type of collector who loves to tinker with the bracelet adjusting links, you should be careful as ceramic has the potential to chip, especially the sharp corners of the links. And if you do that, the link will have to be replaced, which might be a costly exercise. Now, this shouldn’t deter you from buying, but this will be the case for all ceramic watches in the Market.

Understanding Ceramic:

There are many advantages to using Ceramic in a watch. It’s lightweight, which means it’s comfortable for longer periods of wear. Ceramic is hypoallergenic, as there are no coatings, it is great for sensitive skin. The best reason for ceramic is the wear and tear compared to steel or precious metals. Ceramic is scratch-proof and may not show any signs of wear after years of use. Also added benefits such as corrosion-free, colour won’t change from ultraviolet rays, and anti-magnetic properties. 

Enter Hublot. When it comes to material experimentation in watchmaking, Hublot’s experience is unmatched by any Brand, especially in Ceramics and Sapphires. They are the world’s first to create scratch-proof gold, created with minuscule pores of ceramic poured with 24k molten gold under high pressure to fill the cavities. Named “Magic Gold” by Hublot, it is 75% pure gold, thus making it 18k gold material. 

Now, coming back to ceramic, many brands produce ceramic cases, but only a few venture into making bracelets. Due to the very nature of how bracelets are constructed and worn, ceramic is not an optimal choice. Yes, it’s scratch-resistant, but as mentioned earlier, it’s also prone to chipping if mishandled.

Big Bang Integrated Design:

At 42mm, at first glance, it has all the design cues from Big Bang Unico. Hublot has been listening to its customers and has started to manufacture smaller case sizes. Now, 42mm may not look like a smaller size to some, but given how the Big Bang cases used to be when they started off with 44mm and 45mm sizing, this is a step in the right direction. 

The case and strap are both made from blue ceramic, which has been satin-finished and polished. Hublot has chosen to use this high-tech ceramic as the chosen material because it is an ultra-tough material, and almost entirely scratch-proof. The mixture of the two different finish types gives the watch added character and depth. Ceramic is a tried and tested material for the brand, especially when it comes to the Big Bang Intergrated collection. On previous editions, Hublot has presented the Big Bang Intergrated in navy blue, black, white and grey ceramic colours.

The case back has a see-through sapphire crystal, where you can see Hublot’s in-house 1280 Unico movement. Around the sapphire crystal, is the inscription “LIMITED HUBLOT BIG BANG EDITION”, which is done in white to contrast against the blue ceramic case back. Through the sapphire crystal, you can see the 1280 Unico movement decorated nicely, along with the hollowed-out winding rotor.

In-house calibre 1280 Unico Movement:

The HUB1280 Unico automatic movement is one of Hublot’s workhorses, having been placed in over 19 references. It consists of over 354 parts and 43 jewels, beats at a frequency of 28,800Hz, and produces a power reserve of 72 hours. This movement’s functions include Hours, minutes, seconds (9 o’clock), date and chronograph. The chronograph seconds are placed in the centre of the dial, and the minute counter is placed at the 3 o’clock position. The date is displayed within the chronograph minute counter. 

As this is not just any chronograph, but a flyback chronograph, the in-house-made calibre HUB1280 unico movement is a modular movement with a column wheel chronograph module. The column wheel is usually displayed on the caseback side of the watch on most watches (from different brands); however, in the case of the Hublot, the double clutch mechanism and the column wheel are displayed on the dial side, and the column wheel is visible between the five and six-hour markers. You can see this in operation as you start, stop and restart the chronograph. 

Another bit of information that some may overlook is the information placed on the movement side of the HUB1280 in the caseback, “Full Adjusted”. It is nice to see this type of detail on the in-house movements. 

How does it wear?

At first instant, when you try the watch on, it feels like a toy. This is due to a couple of things; first, the lightness of the ceramic: unlike stainless steel and precious metals, Ceramic and Titanium are lightweight in nature, and if you are like me, who owns stainless steel watches and is used to weight, you will find this to be weird in a good way. The second thing is the colour; blue indigo is such a beautiful shade of blue that it oozes with a wrist’s presence and comes alive outdoors. 

Now, while wearing this, most of the time, it felt like a toy on the wrist; I couldn’t pinpoint exactly what it was making me feel that way. Ask anyone who owns a ceramic watch, and one of the things they will say is that it feels like a toy on the wrist. Perhaps the lightness of the ceramic, the bright, indigo blue or a combination of both. I don’t say this in a bad way. I actually really like this watch on the wrist.

One of the drawbacks of this watch is its legibility. While the skeletonised dial is pleasing to the eyes, the placement of the date wheel makes the dial somewhat cluttered. The time and the chronograph can be easily read. However, depending on the lighting, reading the date can be challenging.

Can this watch be a daily watch? The short answer is yes.

I have had this watch for just over two weeks, during which time I almost wore it daily. The lightness of the ceramic and its scratch-resistant properties make it a great daily watch. The bracelet is comfortable on the wrist, and the way it plays with light surprised me. AP bracelets are famous for the way they shine, and I can say this bracelet is on par with that. Operating the Chronograph is easy with the 1280 calibre. The pushers are smooth, and the flyback function is satisfying to operate. I enjoyed seeing the column wheel in action on the dial side of the watch.

Given how bright this blue is, I found myself looking at this watch more than any other watch I own. Now, this watch won’t go with many outfits, and if you are into matching watches to your outfits, you will find a hard time matching this to your outfits. Then again, this wasn’t made to blend in, not with this particular colour anyway. However, if this isn’t the colour for you, I have got some good news: The Big Bang Integral ceramic comes in many colours, including white and black ceramic, so there is a colour for every collector…

Final Thoughts:

Limited to just 250 pieces worldwide and with a colour like Blue Indigo, this is not a watch that you won’t see around. Hublot offers 5 years of warranty on all of their watches, and this particular watch is a boutique and online exclusive. Once you have purchased this watch, you will be eligible for a complimentary complete service from Hublot.

Hublot deserves credit for Its Build Quality. I have been fortunate enough to test the Audemars Piguet full ceramic watches, and the build quality on this Hublot is on par with the AP ceramic for a fraction of the price. This is priced at 37,600 AUD, and for this price point, you are getting a full ceramic watch with a finishing that is very close to Audemars Piguet Ceramic and a flyback chronograph. Now, the closest comparison for this watch is the Audemars Piguet with the full black ceramic flyback chronograph on production (reference 26240CE.OO.1225CE.02) and has an RRP of 111,700 Singapore dollars, which is roughly 127,000 AUD converted. Now, that’s roughly 3.3 times the price of this Hublot. Does the AP command three times the price tag of Hublot? I’ll let you be the judge of that. 

Reference: 451.EX.5129.EX

Specification:

• Size: 42mm
• Case: Blue Indigo Ceramic
• Dial: Matt Blue Skeleton Dial
• Movement: HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel
• Power reserve: 72 hrs
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating with faceted edges
• Case back: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
• Strap: Satin-finished and Polished Blue Ceramic Bracelet, Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Pricing: A$37,600

Availability: Limited to 250 pieces. Available now from Hublot Boutiques or online from Hublot.com

Commemorating 100 years since the birth of the first official Seiko, a watch that bore “Seiko” on the dial for the first time, Seiko Australia has proudly announced the launch of the SEIKO BIRTH & REBIRTH exhibition. The very first pop-up exhibition from Seiko in Australia will provide visitors with an exclusive look into curated Seiko exhibitions and timepiece collections. The pop-up exhibition will be open to visitors for free from Friday, March 15th, 2024, to Sunday, March 24th, 2024.

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Located at Shop 54, Mid City Centre,420 George Street, Sydney, the SEIKO BIRTH & REBIRTH exhibition invites visitors to delve into Seiko’s rich history, highlighting the brand’s evolution from its inception to its envisioned future. Outside the Seiko Exhibition, you are greeted with a large display of the Seiko birth model in 1924, the “1913 Laurel,” alongside its 2024 rendition.

What you can expect

Upon entering the exhibition, you are presented with Seiko’s “BIRTH” section, an immersive experience of Seiko, and you are introduced to Seiko’s history, from its founding in 1881 to the present day. The “BIRTH” section offers a view into the Seiko Museum in Ginza, Tokyo, with the exhibition showcasing museum pieces flown all the way from the museum.

Visitors will also be treated to inspiring stories from Seiko’s history, marked by the many challenges the brand faced as well as the innovations throughout it’s history. This “BIRTH” section will show that despite overcoming the many different adversities, Seiko has always continued to innovate and move past the challenges, in line with the founder’s philosophy to be “Always one step ahead of the rest.”

After learning about Seiko and its history, you will then move on from the “BIRTH” section to the “REBIRTH” section, which is a Power Design Project. This project will show the visitors modern re-interpretions which signify the revival of iconic original Seiko designs. The Power Design Project is an experimental initiative shaping the future of Seiko. Once you have learnt more about the project, you get a chance to vote for which models you would like to see in production (as the ones shown are just prototype designs). So your voice matters on selecting the timepieces!

The exhibition will also highlight Seiko’s 2022 theme of REBIRTH. Seiko states that “eight Seiko designers have developed their ideas and expanded their imaginations from original Seiko watches and technologies that have emerged throughout their long history, channelling them into the REBIRTH of seven timepieces.”

The visitors will get the chance to meet two Seiko designers between Friday, 15th March 2024, to Sunday, 17th March 2024 (3 days). The designers, Natsuhiko Takahashi and Yuya Suganuma have been flown down from Japan as part of the Power Design Project and will be available to speak with visitors to discuss their design inspiration and also participate in FAQ sessions.

The final part of this Seiko exhibition is the “SPORTS” section. This section presents Seiko’s historical stopwatches and a Seiko Sports Timer activation, showing Seiko’s commitment to excellence in sports timing. This is a legacy solidified by Seiko’s role as the official timekeeper at numerous international sports events since 1964.

One of these sports timing events was Usain Bolt’s 2009 world record 100m run in Berlin (which is yet to be broken). In this exhibition pop-up you get a chance to win a Seiko Sports timer if you manage to get 9:58 on the stop-watch. We tried and nearest we got was 9.59

There will be a few more activities you can do in this pop-up exhibition, however, we won’t spoil the fun for you! If you are available on the 15th-24th of March, head on over to Mid City Centre on George Street, Sydney, to see Australia’s first-ever Seiko exhibition, and take part in the fun activities and the decision-making process for some future Seiko timepieces!

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Back in 2019, we reviewed the then-current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since then, Omega has given the Speedy a bit of an upgrade with a new movement and a re-designed bracelet and clasp. However, not much else has changed, and with the imminent announcement of Omega’s new suspected White Dial or perhaps a white ceramic Speedmaster on Tuesday 5th March 2024, we thought we would dig into our archives and re-visit this review, and add a few comments within to be in line with the current model. Enjoy this blast from the past!

A Bit Of History

The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic games. 

Things changed, however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from being a watch used for timing sporting events to being the watch Astronauts used for space travel? It all starts with a story about a man named Walter Schirra.

Being an aviator and military pilot himself, he was about to embark on the Mercury-Atlas 8 Mission. As a way to possibly mark the momentous occasion, he went watch hunting (as any of us would without a doubt). Omega had established a position for itself and with the release of the eye-catching Speedmaster Chronograph, it would be safe to say that it more than caught Schirra’s attention. This would be the turning point in Speedmaster’s history as from this point forward, it would go on to do numerous space travel missions. 

The “Professional” name was added to the Speedmaster during the 1964-1965 period. The Speedmaster would further cement its legacy as NASA’s go-to watch for space missions due to the events that occurred on Apollo 13. During the Apollo 13 mission, there was an explosion and rupture in one of the oxygen tanks, causing a major internal failure on the spacecraft. Not only the source of Oxygen was diminishing really quickly for the crew, but the navigational and directional equipment was malfunctioning as well. To get the Astronauts safely back to earth, they needed to be able to fire the engines at the right time, so that they could enter the Earth’s atmosphere at precisely the right angle. With the computer and certain technological systems failing, the Omega Speedmaster would come to the rescue. 

The crew had to time the firing of the engines correctly and precise activation of the burners was required, which lasted a total of 4 minutes and 24 seconds. Following this they had to make further two small mid-course corrections. To perform one of the smaller mid-course corrections before entering the earth’s atmosphere, the Speedmaster was used which lasted a total of 14 seconds. The dire consequences of firing the burners at the wrong time and the wrong angle would’ve been the difference between death or permanent orbit around the sun for the crew.  A Silver Snoopy award which is an accolade given to people for making a major difference on Space missions, was given to the creators of the Speedmaster watch, Omega. Hence the Silver Snoopy award special edition Omega Speedmasters we have today.

The Design

The design of the watch is just as iconic as the watch itself. With the dial relatively unchanged over the course of its lifespan so far, it’s still strikingly beautiful. In the current Speedmaster Moonwatch professional, it carries the standard tachymeter. There is a 30-minute counter on the 3 o’clock position, a 12-hour counter at the 6 o’clock, and a constant seconds counter on the 9 o’clock position. The dial has a distinctive black-and-white contrast that is symbolic of the Omega Speedmaster models. The dial itself is black while the indexes, hour, minute, second hands, and hour markers are coloured in white. The three counters are also done in white colour. This is vitally important for easy readability and would’ve definitely come in handy during the space missions.

The heart of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is run by the mechanical Calibre 1863. 2024 edit: However, I must note that the current version in 2024 now has the 3861 Calibre which is an evolution of the Calibre 1863. Most notably an increased power reserve, hacking seconds, and increased anti-magnetism with a slightly better level of finishing all add up to a better overall movement in the latest version. This is an upgrade to what was an upgrade on the Calibre 1861 before the 1863 was implemented.

The calibre 1863 uses more high-grade components and comes with a rhodium-plated finish and an open case-back to be able to admire the movement in action.  The calibre 1863 is a hand wound chronograph movement which means that there is no rotor in action. With the removal of the rotor, it makes way for the beautiful open work dial to be viewed at full capacity and truly appreciated. Omega have gone the extra length to make sure the movement looks aesthetically pleasing.

The bridges have a clean brushed finish in one direction, while the edges are also rounded off nicely. For a watch that is priced under $12,000 AUD, the intricate work of the movement is incredibly well done by Omega and is worth every penny. The calibre 1863 movement offers up to 48 hours of power reserve (the newer 3861 gives you 50 hours) while also having 50 metres of water resistance. 

How It Wears?

With a 42mm casing, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional wears nicely on a 7-inch wrist without the lugs protruding out. When worn with a steel bracelet the watch feels very solid on the wrist. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional sits at approximately 14mm in height, which means that while it does stand quite tall it doesn’t get in the way of everyday wear. This is certainly a watch that looks good regardless of the strap it’s matched with. 

Omega does offer their own Nato straps for this watch, citing that astronauts used these Nato straps for their space missions due to much less chance of the watch decoupling from the bracelet. What this means for wearability in the modern day is that it is almost suited to any occasion. You can wear this watch to outdoor occasions with the fun vibrant summer colours of the Nato straps or even to less formal occasions and everyday wear when worn with a black leather strap.

The steel bracelet option offers a use-case for those formal occasions where a suit is required or if you would rather prefer to have the watch feeling slightly heavier on the wrist. 2024 edit: When Omega updated this a few years back, the Speedmaster bracelet was given an overhaul and now comes with a more refined bracelet with evenly-spaced links, a more refined and smaller clasp with a comfort extension, similar to what you find on the Seamaster. This gives the piece a slightly dressier look and wears even better on the wrist than the bracelet of old!

Some Final Thoughts – Old vs New

Looking back on this review, it’s amazing how very little has changed over the past 4 or 5 years with this piece. It’s still as good-looking today as it was in 2019, albeit with a few minor differences. Since then, keen observers will not that the bracelet has changed on the Monwatch to the newer and lighter bracelet. This gives the watch a somewhat slightly different look with a more refined link system and also the addition of the new clasp with a comfort setting. A welcome addition for most.

The newer movement in the form of the Calibre 3861 isn’t a leap ahead, but more an evolution to stay current with the rest of the Omega lineup. More power reserve, hacking seconds and a better overall finish is always welcomed and doesn’t depart too much from the 1863 in the previous model. It’s still a reliable workhorse movement that is a Master Chronometer certified and highly anti-magnetic. Again, all good things. And whilst these improvements are great, the Speedmaster is still a classic watch that is recognisable anywhere and from any era. A classic will always be a classic!

Reference: 311.30.42.30.01.006, Steel on Steel (As Reviewed). Updated to 1.310.30.42.50.01.001 (Current model)

Specifications

• Case diameter: 42mm
• Case material: Steel case, brushed and polished
• Dial Colour: Matte Black
• Bezel: Black, with a tachymetric scale
• Crystal: Domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment inside
• Water resistance: 50 meters/ 5ATM
• Movement: Omega 1863, manual-winding chronograph movement. Updated in the current model to Calibre 3861, beating at 3Hz and Master Chronometer cdertified.
• Power reserve: 48 hours (Calibre 1863), now 50 hours (Calibre 3861)
• Bracelet: Steel bracelet with brushed and polished links with pushbutton folding clasp. (Current version on newer style with comfort extension in clasp)

Australian Retail Pricing: $13,250 for the Calibre 3863 in sapphire

Availability: Available now via all Omega boutiques, authorised dealers and online at Omegawatches.com

So when Troy Barbagallo from Barbagllo Watches decided to do a limited edition for the second time, we knew it would be fascinating. 

For context, Troy Barbagallo’s first-ever collaboration with a watch brand was in 2021 with Audemars Piguet. Audemars Piguet is one of the most prestigious watch brands. One would think this is setting up the bar too high, as this limited edition creation was, in fact, a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in yellow gold. 

The timepiece was named the “Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar +8”, or nick-named “+8”. What’s so special about this watch? It was limited to only 20 pieces, sub-dials were done in green, and the 8 o’clock marker is a numeral instead of a baton-style hour marker. “8” represents GMT 8+, the timezone in Barbagallo’s home city, Perth. 

In 2024, Troy raised the bar again with his second collaboration with H. Moser & Cie, an independent watchmaker of the highest calibre.

H.Moser & Cie is a Swiss watchmaking brand that creates rare watches. They manufacture watches in limited quantities, so if you miss out on a particular watch, chances are that you will not see that reference again. 

Moser has four core collections: Streamliner, Pioneer, Heritage and Endeavour. The most notable collection among watch enthusiasts is the Streamliner collection. This is because of the brand’s first-ever watch in the “integrated sports watch” category. Streamliner collection has been described as a minimalist and contemporary elegance and pays tribute to the sleek automotive and locomotive designs of the 1920s.

Upon its release, the Troy Barbagallo H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+ captured the attention of watch aficionados around the world. Much like Troy Barbagallo’s first creation with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, this second collaboration also involves yellow gold.

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As the name suggests, the base model used for this collaborative creation is from H.Moser & Cie’s Streamliner collection. Troy Barbagallo and Moser took the Streamliner Tourbillon model and gave some new impressive design aesthetics, ones that stay true to his style but also capture the identity of H.Moser & Cie and their stunning dials.

Case and Dial

H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+ comes with the exact case size of the Streamliner Tourbillon collection, measuring 40mm in diameter and just 10.3mm thick. The yellow-gold case is very aesthetic to look at, especially in person. It has the same level of polishing and satin-finishing that other Streamliner timepieces have undergone.

The dial of the Troy Barbagallo H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+ is simply beautiful and elegant. From all different angles on the wrist, the watch stands out and demands attention. Unlike what you may see in the press photos, the dial has a distinctive brushed sunburst pattern. This brushed finish continues directly onto the case, which is the level of aesthetic detail that H. Moser & Cie is known for.

Troy Barbagallo took the design of the existing Streamliner Tourbillon and tweaked it to his styling. The end result is a dial with just the right amount of detail that isn’t as simplistic as H. Moser & Cie’s other notable timepieces in the Streamliner collection. It also lets the impressively detailed finishing of the dial stand out. The dial is also a shade or two darker in gold colour compared to the case, which allows the viewer to be drawn in and not be taken away by the beauty of the case and bracelet design.

The winding crown at the 3 o’clock position carries the H.Moser& Cie logo “M” and is a screw-down design that helps support the 120-meter water-resistance depth rating. At the 6 o’clock position is the finely crafted tourbillon, which adds complexity to an otherwise beautiful three-hander dial. The other subtle addition from Troy Barbagallo is the 8 o’clock hour marker finished with an emerald, representing GMT 8+, the timezone in Barbagallo’s home city, Perth.

Another subtle addition to the dial is the H.Moser & Cie’s logo underneath 12 o’clock position. The logo was removed from previous editions of the Streamliner Tourbillon. On the Ventablack Tourbillon model, the logo would’ve stood out almost instantly regardless of how subtly it would have been done due to the deep richness of the black colour. On the Troy Barbagallo H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+, the logo is clearly visible at certain angles. The brushed sunburst finish of the dial also helps to blend in the logo.

Bracelet

While we are used to seeing this integrated bracelet design matched with the beautifully designed cushion-shaped case for some time now, as this is the standard design of H.Moser & Cie’s Streamliner collection, seeing it in yellow gold material was refreshing.

The bracelet has the same brushed finish as the case, which adds that extra level of detail. The photos don’t do this bracelet enough justice, as seeing it in person is a worthwhile experience. The bracelet, like the case and dial, plays beautifully with light.

Movement

The movement in the “+8” retains the previous Streamliner Tourbillon calibre HMC 804. The HMC-804 movement is the brand’s in-house automatic movement calibre, which runs at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vph) and has a three-day power reserve.

The HMC 804 calibre has some clever ways of counteracting the effects of gravity on the movement, firstly through the one-minute flying tourbillon and secondly through H.Moser & Cie’s patented double hairspring. The use of two identical hairsprings acts to compensate for any positional errors.

The high level of movement detail and finishing are the same as the Streamliner Tourbillon collection, with the notable exception being the winding rotor, which is now made from yellow gold to match the case. The HMC 804 calibre movement can be seen thanks to the timepiece’s open case back.

How does it wear?

To describe in one word how the “+8” wears would be “WOW”. Now, I have tested out many watches over the years, and when I first tried on the watch before the release, I instantly fell in love, mostly due to how the watch sat on my wrist. At 40mm x 10.3mm thick, the case is slim in size, meaning on my 16.5cm (or 6.5 inches) wrist, it made it super comfortable to wear. It was so comfortable that I had difficulty in wanting to take the watch off.

Even though the star of the watch is the double hairspring flying tourbillon, the way the rounded cushion-shaped case and the bracelet blended together with the brushed and polished surfaces was the key attraction for me. The dial has some depth to it as well. If you look at the dial directly, you will see the brushed sunburst effect, and when you tilt the watch slightly, the sunburst effect will vanish and become a mirror finish dial.

Priced at 228,000 AUD and limited edition to 33 pieces, the “+8” is a one-of-a-kind watch that Moser and Troy have created. From every angle, you will find something to fall in love with this watch, whether it’s the Emerald at 8’clock, the double hairspring flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, the sunburst to a mirror-finished dial, the subtle logo on the dial, or the exquisite polish and satin finished casing and bracelet. This watch will definitely keep you entertained every time you put it on.

Specification

• Case: 40mm, 10.3mm thick
• Case Material: Yellow Gold, with a combination of brushed and polished finishing
• Dial: Sunburst yellow gold dial, Double Hairspring Flying Tourbillon at 6 o’clock and Emerald at 8 o’clock.
• Crystal: Domed scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides
• Water resistance: 120m (12BAR)
• Movement: Calibre HMC 804 
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Bracelet/Strap: Yellow Gold Bracelet

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $228,000.00

For more information, visit Barbagallo Watch or H-Moser.com

Australia is making its presence known in the watch world, as a few weeks ago, BOVET unveiled its first boutique in the land down under. This new boutique opening has been done in partnership with luxury house S&S Group, a wholly-owned conglomerate of companies that operate in the (ultra) Luxury, Automotive, Arts and Fashion industries. This new boutique is located on Collins Street, the central business district of Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

The new boutique is almost 50 square meters in size and has been designed to present the House of BOVET in its unique environment, almost as if when you are walking through the doors, you are entering the BOVET Castle in Switzerland. The boutique will also house the complete collection of BOVET timepieces, something collectors and watch aficionados will be pleased to see.

“The collectors in Australia are very dear to us and we are pleased to be working with S&S Group here, who is also our boutique partner in Vietnam. We have a great partnership and the boutique is located in the prime location in Melbourne. We are looking forward to continuing our great relationship with collectors Down Under and having a flagship boutique here is so important.

We will be holding many events in Melbourne and the collection the boutique has is fantastic. At BOVET, we handcraft more than 95% of all the components that go into our timepieces in our facilities, and as a result, they are pieces of art that tell time. S&S Group understand this and is perfectly positioned to share the unique BOVET approach with collectors in Australia.”

Mr. Pascal Raffy, owner, BOVET.

The Bovet Boutique is part of “The Block Arcade” precinct, which was built between 1890 and 1893. The Block Arcade is ranked highly as one of the most popular tourist attractions in Melbourne. It’s considered one of the finest shopping arcades from the Victorian era, with the architecture of the arcade being inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. With Bovet’s rich history and heritage, the location of this boutique is perfectly suited to match its surrounding aesthetics.

The inside of the boutique has a minimalistic appearance that exudes elegance and luxury. The combination of a cream colour and wooden panels on both the walls and floor contrast well to create an elegant aesthetic finish. The “wooden” finish is also displayed through the tables, chairs and wall hangings, further enhancing the vintage-inspired look of the boutique, pointing the customers and clientele to BOVET’s rich and deep history. The blue colour used for the back walls and chairs adds that touch of colour to grab the attention of entrants and passersby.

“The luxury watch market in Australia has been steadily evolving, reflecting the country’s appreciation for artistry and precision in watchmaking. We are excited to be a part of this evolution and look forward to providing our guests in Melbourne with a unique and unforgettable experience.

This boutique is the first step in developing the House of BOVET in Australia and both BOVET and S&S Group are committed to being a part of the future of fine timepieces in the country. At S&S, we firmly believe in doing things with passion and a forward-looking approach. Our Melbourne boutique will not just be a place where time is measured, but where it is celebrated.”

Sam Vu, CEO, S&S Group

The real works of craftsmanship and art in the boutique will, of course, be the timepieces, some of which will leave you jaw-dropping. If you are a local or visiting Melbourne, don’t miss out on the chance to see some of the finest creations in the world of horology.

Boutique Contact Info:
Tel: 039 639 4616
Website: www.bovet.com
Email: cs.bovet@ssgroup.net
Address: 298 COLLINS ST. MELBOURNE, VICTORIA 3000, AUSTRALIA
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 10:00 to 18:00

To find out more, head over to Bovet.com